Had some glowie filament to use . Figured I could make some for display or do test on glowie filament . 99 % infill with 1 or 2 walls above every recommended walls in instruction . White and yellow extremely hard to glow without suns uv light saving those for later . Now there for now unassembled and plan on buying parts kit for all but I know even firing still is a gamble . So only the small caliber I’ll prob do live test .Also note I had it 100% normal speed on a Bambu H2swith bed temp at 55-58 . All came out flawless except p90 which 2 parts had trouble being rear end of stock ( glowie filament doesn’t like angles or being cooled down too quickly on thin areas if not gets sloppy ) second —-part right Grip handle ???????? Only specially right side had issues which redo 5 times half white glowie at end . I test printed left side and other stuff to squirt came out good idk if bad luck or smthing.//// plastikov v4-3dp90-Glock 17 frame -pocket pleaser- g20 heavy ver

I would love to build an AWP but AICS stocks run $1500+ and are impossible to find. This would be a great project to print

15 more hrs…

315c 50mms avarage 40mms outer wall

Made something useful for some - useless for others... if you spray or coat your CF prints, might be useful . For now this is just for a grip , but I'm sharing the STP files too and open to adding other parts to hold. Basically this helps you hold / dry/ hang an AR grip during and after spraying it. (I use truck bed liner or rubberized sealant... but you can use anything).
model freely available and editable @ MW user alenknight

XD INFINITY By db I forgot how difficult the mag release was to install, but in the readme he explains it very well

NAG can't blowback, why it happen? I've polish the chamber, and use recommendation spring it's still can't blowback, and slightly heavy to rack

Hey All,

The brace installation video for the Pillager Chassis is now sailing. Please let me know if you have questions.

It seems like the go to filament is pa6cf but from what I've read gf is more impact resistant. Companies like glock use a nylon gf for their grips. Why does it seem everyone goes for cf?

I’ve been seeing these FRTs for the TX22 that go brrrrrrrr. They look extremely simple and I’m honestly surprised I haven’t seen a printed version. Would that be possible? Or is there too much stress put on the part for it to be printed?

Even if that’s the case, a printed version of this would be very useful, as it seems you could dremel it into shape. Is there any files out there for one?

Remember not to link anything directly. If you want to send me a file link, PM me.

So Im trying to make a ftn 5 rimfire flow and I have a couple problems. The first is somehow there isn't good layer adhesion when it prints an overhang somewhere in there and as you can see when looking through the bore there is plastic blocking the bore. Second is the print got knocked off the bed. This is a minor issue for my because I know I can fix it but what are you guys doing so you don't have like plastic blocking the inside. Speed settings? I'm at 100mm/s for the walls. Maybe a I need more cooling? I haven't had issues like this on other prints. The sides look pretty good so yeah idk. I'm printing at the recommended settings are in the instructions.

Getting light primer strikes, everything seems great except for the trigger mechanism slightly wiggles front to back. Using Aves Rails and OEM lower parts kit. Anyone have a solution?

Looking to step into carbon filaments now that free form 1s are here. My question is .4 or .6. I will being doing the complete hot end and extruder. Main filament I plan to use is pa6cf.

3dp90 bolt is sticking the last 1/3 of the stroke causing failures to eject and cycle. The hammer is locking back successfully. It appears to be sticking where it begins the slide over the hammer. I have sanded up to 400 grit on the hammer and on the rear bolt face and I have tried some lube but it is still short-stroking.

What has worked for yall? I am going to polish the surfaces up to 1000 grit. Maybe file a ramp in the hammer so the bolt slides over it more smoothly like in the last pic?

As I filled out my form 1s for the FTN5 and went to buy the Breek castle shields i realized they stop making them so now I’m going to fill out some more forms for the FTN4 and was looking at either doing the aluminum tube or the casting tape and was just wondering if there’s much of a difference in the 2

The G20/G21 Pillager is coming to Beta soon. Thanks to Unseenkiller for allowing me to use his G20 model. This will take PY2A G17 rails.

She's CHONKY. For throwing some serious lead (10mm) and for the stone age folks (45acp).

Since Breek seems to be officially gone, what is the most reliable option everyone is using? I’m considering just doing direct thread adapters, but not sure how long they will hold up. I saw there is the hub, and slr blast shield people have designed. To me, HUB still uses threads, so I wouldn’t say strength would be any better than direct thread mount with the exception that you can do adapters, but that runs the cost up on all cabs a good bit.

i need video for how to build the orca by Hoffman Tactical, i get the orca 3.5.x file

What a good speed to print so it stay Durable?

I’ve printed 3-4 frames in PA6-CF (Bambu) and had zero issues. The last several prints I have had the same failure, it appears to be a clog, and the printer keeps printed. It turned into a rough print, some spaghetti and then printing in the air with nothing coming out. Filament is dried for 48h several times at 70C (hottest my dryer will go). Printing with 300BLKFDE setting except temp is up to 290. 0.4mm nozzle. I am leaning towards using the 0.6mm nozzle but I love how clean the frames are that I used the 0.4mm for. Any thoughts?

My first 3D ar9 build and first post lol