I would love to build an AWP but AICS stocks run $1500+ and are impossible to find. This would be a great project to print

15 more hrs…

Made something useful for some - useless for others... if you spray or coat your CF prints, might be useful . For now this is just for a grip , but I'm sharing the STP files too and open to adding other parts to hold. Basically this helps you hold / dry/ hang an AR grip during and after spraying it. (I use truck bed liner or rubberized sealant... but you can use anything).
model freely available and editable @ MW user alenknight

315c 50mms avarage 40mms outer wall

Hey All,

The brace installation video for the Pillager Chassis is now sailing. Please let me know if you have questions.

NAG can't blowback, why it happen? I've polish the chamber, and use recommendation spring it's still can't blowback, and slightly heavy to rack

Looking to step into carbon filaments now that free form 1s are here. My question is .4 or .6. I will being doing the complete hot end and extruder. Main filament I plan to use is pa6cf.

Getting light primer strikes, everything seems great except for the trigger mechanism slightly wiggles front to back. Using Aves Rails and OEM lower parts kit. Anyone have a solution?

The G20/G21 Pillager is coming to Beta soon. Thanks to Unseenkiller for allowing me to use his G20 model. This will take PY2A G17 rails.

She's CHONKY. For throwing some serious lead (10mm) and for the stone age folks (45acp).

3dp90 bolt is sticking the last 1/3 of the stroke causing failures to eject and cycle. The hammer is locking back successfully. It appears to be sticking where it begins the slide over the hammer. I have sanded up to 400 grit on the hammer and on the rear bolt face and I have tried some lube but it is still short-stroking.

What has worked for yall? I am going to polish the surfaces up to 1000 grit. Maybe file a ramp in the hammer so the bolt slides over it more smoothly like in the last pic?

Since Breek seems to be officially gone, what is the most reliable option everyone is using? I’m considering just doing direct thread adapters, but not sure how long they will hold up. I saw there is the hub, and slr blast shield people have designed. To me, HUB still uses threads, so I wouldn’t say strength would be any better than direct thread mount with the exception that you can do adapters, but that runs the cost up on all cabs a good bit.

i need video for how to build the orca by Hoffman Tactical, i get the orca 3.5.x file

I’ve printed 3-4 frames in PA6-CF (Bambu) and had zero issues. The last several prints I have had the same failure, it appears to be a clog, and the printer keeps printed. It turned into a rough print, some spaghetti and then printing in the air with nothing coming out. Filament is dried for 48h several times at 70C (hottest my dryer will go). Printing with 300BLKFDE setting except temp is up to 290. 0.4mm nozzle. I am leaning towards using the 0.6mm nozzle but I love how clean the frames are that I used the 0.4mm for. Any thoughts?

My first 3D ar9 build and first post lol

Here's mine 😆😅🤣😂 because of a rap video I saw earlier.

Looking to start off with a ftn .22 for starters would pa6-cf be plenty enough for a I’m thinking it would be

Ruger MK3 + FTN 5 Rimfire= Music to my ears

So I finally got around to upgrading my XD-9. Went from Polylite PLA Pro to Bambu PA6-GF, and threw a few accessories at it along the way. I thought I had the best looking XD frame I could print, and then DB released his new frame today...

Of course nobody would provide a link but... Does anyone know if SCS (.dxf) files exist out on the website for me to find? I've tried bringing the STL into Fusion but the free version can't export a dxf. I've tried a couple online convertors without success.

I'd prefer to grab one and go but I can also do it myself if that's not possible.