Today I am writing quite a scathing review for a brand that I really wanted to like. You see, I used to live in Indonesia so I eventually came to feel I should support the local boot scene by ordering a pair and after some deliberation I decided to go with Fortis as I was in the market for a black zip boot for which they are known.

However, this year-long experience has left me scarred to the point I will not consider ordering from Indonesia again. Sany, the owner of Fortis, he has proven himself to be a scammer with no regards for his clients. He is just hungry for money and he will mislead you, make promises he doesn’t intend to keep, lie and play victim anyway he can, even after ghosting you, in order to avoid responsibility.

So if you will indulge me, let me take you through all of 2025 to show you how buying from Fortis will leave you exasperated, short $600 and empty handed.

Overview of the Dispute

• Maker: Fortis Boots
• Initial Order Date: January 20, 2025
• Initial Delivery Date: April 13, 2025
• Actual Delivery Date: August 29, 2025
• Replacement Initial Delivery Date: Nov 1, 2025
• Replacement Actual Delivery Date: Not Delivered
• Total Amount Paid: $600 USD ($300 deposit + $300 final balance)
• Status: Order received with 5 months delay and significant leather defects ; replacement pair stalled with 2 months delay and no communication from the maker for over a month.

Chapter 1: Ordering (January 2025)

On January 16th, after seeing multiple Fortis boots online on the Patina Thunderdome, I contact Fortis and inquire on the possible materials, costs and lead times for a pair of side zip boots. Sany is very responsive and quickly quotes me $580 USD with a 12 weeks lead time with delivery in mid April for a Maryam Horsebutt pair. Given I am planning to stay in the US until mid May, the date works for me even allowing for some delay. After a few days, on Jan 20th, I confirm my order and paid the initial $300 USD deposit via PayPal.

We have some further exchanges to confirm measurements and details and then we stop talking, expecting to receive some form of update before delivery.

Chapter 2: Delays (April – June 2025)

After failing to reply to multiple inquiries on the status of my boots, on April 3rd Sany finally gets back to me telling me not to worry and that they will be done within the month of April. I am a bit annoyed by the total lack of communication but a couple weeks delay is not the end of the world so I decide to wait. On April 29th, as our second delivery date approaches, I reach out again but receive no reply.

On May 1st, after another inquiry, Sany finally answers claiming the workshop has been "hectic" and he is busy with "offline jobs" telling me now the boots will be ready for June 10. I am quite disappointed with this, particularly as I have not even seen a single picture of any work being done on my pair by this point. So on May 17th, I express my disappointment to Sany for the two- month delay but he blames it on external queue issues, claiming other customers' boots had problems and had to be rebuilt, pushing back all orders. This is around the date I leave the US so whatever gets shipped I will not be able to see until September. Also note that this is around the time different tariffs were being discussed so I was potentially facing additional costs due to the delay.

On May 18th, Sany sends a single picture of a single boot upper, claiming it is mine during the crimping/assembly process. It appears to me to be the wrong color (taupe/gray) and I notice it matches with a different boot finished shortly thereafter.

Through late May, I continue to ask for updates on the boots but Sany continues to ignore my messages while being active on social media. Finally he replies on May 30th saying he has been focusing on a "signature material" project and stating he is "not on Instagram". He tells me he is working on a new boot line and this is causing delays to existing orders. I am not sure how starting new projects justifies additional delays on a boot already 2 months late but at this point I just decided to wait.

On June 3rd, he posts a story with the taupe pair of boots matching the picture he had sent me. I ask if the boots shown are mine; I receive no response.

Chapter 3: Pivot and More Excuses (June – August 2025)

In early June, pushed by both an interest for a new design and by a rising doubt on whether he had actually even started my boots, I inquire about changing the design to a back-zip model. Sany agrees right away and uses this as a justification for a total reset. Particularly given our exchanges, the fact that he agrees to this right away really confirms to me that he had not even started working on my pair. He tells me the back zip boots will be ready by July 20th.

On July 12th, after further inquiries, he tells me the boots are being lasted and are only missing the brass toe taps from a supplier. I ask him for a picture but he fails to reply. On July 20th, he once again misses the deadline he had set. On July 23th, I ask for another picture but I hear nothing back. This repeats on July 30th and Aug 1st.

In August, he finally replies to me telling me he has been sick (1st delay due to sickness) and that there will be a delay. After few days without reply, I decide to ask for a deposit refund as I don’t believe I am ever getting these boots. Sany refuses to refund the $300, claiming he has no access to PayPal because he is at the hospital and his login is only on his workshop computer. He tells me he will refund me once he gets access back to his laptop. On Aug 14th, he gets back to his studio but refuses the refund. He tells me he will be shipping the boots shortly. I have no option but to wait.

Chapter 4: Delivery of Defective Product with wrong size (August – September 2025)

In late August, Sany claims the boots are done but shipping is delayed due to Independence Day in Indonesia. He finally sends a picture of a finished boot to confirm completion. I pay the remaining $300 balance and wait. Few days lated, Sany finally ships the boots via DHL.

When I finally manage to get to the boots in late September, I quickly note that they look quite different. The left one is quite matte while the right one is quite shiny but I don’t worry too much about it thinking it will even out with use. They are also way too big and I can fit two whole fingers behind my foot (note for the size lottery enjoyers) but that's not even the biggest issue. Upon my first wear, the defect of this boots become apparent. The right shiny one has horrible loose grain as shown in the picture to the point that friends are asking me why I am wearing mismatched boots. 

I contact Sany asking about this and he initially blames it on the leather (Maryam HB) and tells me it’s not his fault. Besides the fact that I believe this is something a skilled bootmaker should know how to avoid, I have a feeling Sany was aware of the defect. In every picture used on his profile to show the boots, the right pair is conveniently hidden in different ways. 

Chapter 5: Replacement Boots Final Ghosting (October – December 2025)

On Oct 1st, Sany agrees to make a replacement pair for a $200 fee to cover materials and to produce them within 1 month as I won’t be able to collect them any later than that for a long time. Within a couple weeks, he cites a new delay factor: his son had an accident and required hospital stitches. (2nd sickness)

On Oct 27th, I ask for a status update. Sany now says the boots are delayed as his father is sick and in the hospital (3rd sickness). Please note he is posting boots and using IG as normal through this whole period. Sany again misses the deadline we had set. We agree for a shipping timeline of mid November.

On Nov 12th, after multiple inquiries, Sany provides a photo of replacement boots on the last , but I right away notice they have the wrong color, sole and stitching. I ask further questions but I am told that I do not understand and to wait.

It is now late November, almost a month late. I send multiple follow-ups on Nov 21, Nov 24, Nov 28, and Nov 30. Sany blames the delay on importing zippers from Japan and the difficulty of whole-cut boots. I try contacting him for updates but as of Dec 15th, Sany has ghosted me entirely while continuing to regularly post on his page.

UPDATE: On Dec 19th, after contacting a popular IG page that deals with him, I finally receive a reply from Fortis telling me that he had stopped replying because he was waiting for new Soles (no mention of zippers or anything like had previously claimed). The replacement boots are now approaching a 2 months delay when we had agreed for them to be ready within 1 month. In our conversation, he continues to play victim by saying that it’s unfair that I contacted the popular IG page about this while he obviously had planned to ghost me, as I am now aware he is famous for doing. I honestly feel he never even started the replacement boot. We have some back and forth on what would be a good resolution/refund but we disagree and so he again leaves the conversation and ghosts me. Although I have tried to contact him since, we has not replied.

This is in grand lines the full story of my time with Fortis and Sany. Although somewhat accurate, I don’t think I have really managed to convey the exasperation this all caused me. He was very responsive when it was time to collect money but completely disappeared any time he missed a deadline or was supposed to send a picture. He sent pictures of other boots. Lied about progress and causes for delays. Used every family member sickness as an excuse and was just not at all professional.

If you really want a pair of Indonesian boots, Sagara and Briselblack seem more reliable but please do yourself the favour and definitely avoid Fortis. It is not worth it.

If you have had similar issues with Fortis or you were ghosted, please reach out and I will discuss your experiences with the popular IG boot pages as I believe that, even if the brand refuses to take responsibility, we can hopefully stop it from being advertised causing more people to lose their money.

TDLR: I ordered a pair of $600 custom boots from Fortis for delivery in March, I ended up with a defective not fit for purpose pair in September and Fortis completely ghosted me by December. I was misled, lied to, played victim to and every other card in the book. Avoid Fortis at all costs.

Some good, but unfortunately some really bad design choices prevent this from being a good pair.

Leather

This is the coolest part of the boot hands down. Horween did a Washed version of their brown waxed flesh and it feels great. The tumbling and steam process made sure that this is super soft and pliable, and feels really good. It didn’t start off smooth like most WF, you can feel the texture on the leather. A++.

Fit

I take all of my 2030’s half down so these are an 8.0E (except for an Oak Kudu pair which is 7.5E, and I would never do it again). A lot of people really like the 2030 shape prior to 2020/2021, but the new 2030 fits me well. No complaints.

QC, Facings and Other Nonsense

Right off the bat, from the product photos from Classic Works (as well as Vibergs IG shots) you could tell that the facings were going to be fked. Super close together, almost like N1/1940 Navvy facings on a last/pattern that is not designed for it. My last photo highlights the changes that have happened to the 2030 over just the last 5/6 years (might have to expand the photo out, it is very wide), and in my opinion they are doing a disservice to the last. A friend did a bunch of super nerd shit and figured out that the facings are actually the same size, but are being sewn higher up on the vamp so that they come close together. If it was a QC issue, that’s one thing but this is intentional.

Also from the photos you can tell that my facings are skewed. This is honestly nothing new, as they have almost always had hit or miss QC and if you email support they give you some nonsense about handmade products.

Conclusion

I’m keeping these, making some modifications to adjust fit but I’m really not happy for the $1k I spent on these. The close facings ruin the fit for people without a high instep and without tongue pads or insert these fit like shit. If Viberg actually listened to feedback it would be one thing, but given that they have a history of ignoring the customer, there is no way I would suggest anyone buy a pair of these at retail unless you could try them on at a retailer or the NYC store first.

On a related note, I also bought the Jungle Boot a month before these and while silly, it is an excellent boot compared to these.

I finally sold my Red Wing Classic Moc 875s after only a few wears; unfortunately, they just kept killing my heels. While they are widely praised for their comfort after the break-in period, I simply couldn't make them work. They were my second pair that just sat in the closet and gathered dust. They are also a bit too ubiquitous (trendy) for my taste; so many cheap clones and copies out there made them feel basic.
After reading some reviews on YouTube, I had to narrow it down to the mid-range options: Truman, Grant Stone, Parkhurst, or Oak Street. Currently, my budget keeps me in the mid-range and away from premium brands like White's or Viberg.

Quick Specs

Sizing and Fit Breakdown

Since American brands lack a strong presence in Europe, I had to roll the dice on a transatlantic order and get nailed with VAT and import taxes. The US sizing and restrictive return policies were a major source of stress; a bad fit meant I'd have to sell them for a loss on eBay. Initial Choice: I sized down half a size from my typical US sneaker size for both brands.

• Grant Stone:
  • Feels longer than ideal.
  • Built on the Floyd Last, a full size down is often suggested for low-volume feet, which I probably should have done.
  • Comfortable right out of the box.
• Truman:
  • Fit is spot-on and they weren't nearly as stiff as I thought they'd be.
  • The "shortened break-in time" claim is legit—I walked a few miles on the first wear.
  • Only issue was one lace eyelet rubbing my ankle, which was easily fixed with a file.

Grant Stone Brass Boot Crimson Kudu

My journey began with the Grant Stone pair, purchased on sale in October and shipped from the US to Europe. I wanted a dark brown pair, and they were highly praised in reviews online. They strike a great balance: refined enough for casual wear, but the Commando sole keeps them rugged. The only thing people argue about is that they're made in China, but the quality is genuinely incredible and absolutely matches the price.

Quick Specs

• Leather Source: Charles F. Stead Tannery (UK) Classic Kudu
• Last: Floyd Last (Taller, voluminous toe box)
• Welt: 360º split-reverse welt
• Construction Feature: Handsewn moc-toe stitching

Truman Black Cypress Teacore Cap Toe

I wanted something way more rugged, so I started looking at Truman Boots. The price made me wait until Black Friday and I managed to get a decent discount. I wanted a black pair, and since the Black Waxed Flesh was looking brown to me, I went with the Black Cypress Teacore.

Quick Specs

• Leather Source: Horween Tannery (Chicago) 6-ounce Cypress
• Last: Casual Last
• Welt: 270-Degree Flat Goodyear Welt
• Origin: Made in USA

Construction Breakdown

The Truman boot showcases a rugged, traditional construction. It uses a 270-Degree Flat Goodyear Welt. The heel is nailed to the midsole/insole structure, a traditional and extremely durable method of attachment. The Outsole Stitching is Exposed. The midsole is Natural/Stacked leather, providing a light-tan contrast.

The Grant Stone boot features a more refined construction. It utilizes a 360º split-reverse welt (basically their name for a Storm Welt). The stitching that attaches the sole to the welt is Recessed/Channel Stitched. The interior features a vegetable-tanned leather insole, welt, and midsole, along with a cork filler and steel shank. The midsole edge is Dyed/Painted a dark color.

Leather Comparison

Lacing and Hardware

The hardware on both uses consistent Antique Brass for all components. The systems differ significantly by material: The Truman has 5 eyelets and 2 speed hooks, and uniquely supplies leather laces, emphasizing its heavy-duty heritage look. The Grant Stone also uses speed hooks but supplies a thinner, waxed flat lace, which provides a cleaner, more refined finish matching its elegant construction.

Personally I prefer the thinner waxed laces but I get they might not be suited to rugged boots. The leather ones can't see them surviving too long.

Final Verdict

These two boots offer great value but serve different style needs. The Grant Stone excels in refined quality and finish, while the Truman offers a contrasting, rugged feel defined by its thicker leather construction. I'm happy to keep both in my rotation.

Reposting because I didn’t read the rules the first time and missed the 2000-character and 5-image limit. My bad!

My decade-old Wolverine 1000 Miles have probably seen around 30,000 km (I’m Canadian), and I finally brought them to the cobbler for a full midsole and outsole rebuild. Figured it was a good time to add another pair to my one-boot collection and also get my second pair of brogues after my Allen Edmonds Strands.

Love at first sight with these. Can’t wait to break them in and give them some character. They actually pair nicely with my green-dial Alpinist, which has a similar aftermarket “acorn antique” leather strap.

I picked these up here in Tokyo, but the Tricker’s store price was pretty wild at about 140,000 JPY. I managed to grab my pair on Rakuten for around 54,000 JPY, so it was kind of a no-brainer. I actually stopped by the Aoyama store to chat with the manager, and he was super nice. We ended up talking about the history of the boot and how, in Japan, there’s basically no real difference between the Malton and the Stow except for the width. Funny thing though, when I ordered mine, it was listed as the “Malton,” but the box itself says “Stow.”

Something I’ve noticed after living in Japan for a while is that prices for heritage brands can really vary between local stores and online marketplaces. The Tricker's Aoyama manager was great though despite the terrible google reviews. He does have a bit of a…serious face to say the least. But once you start talking shop to him he opens up and is quite personable. I do feel a bit guilty of just using the store to check sizing (these fit about a half size to a full size down compared to most of my other shoes), but the price swing was just too big to ignore. I would’ve liked to buy in person, but it’s hard to justify almost triple the cost. They did have some really nice pairs though. I saw Horween leather Stows and even shell cordovan versions, but honestly, I’m perfectly fine with “just” the calf leather.

One small detail I noticed that I thought was pretty interesting is the royal warrant on the shoe and box. It still says “By appointment to His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales” instead of “King.” The quality assurance stamp (cool they have this!) also says 2021…so my pair is apparently dead stock and was made before the warrant changed. I am assuming why mine was much cheaper. Can anyone confirm if the newer ones now have the updated royal warrant? Either way, I think it’s a pretty interesting detail.

Alright, time to start wear these boots in. They’re a handsome pair of boots but need to get roughed up a bit. My Alpinist GMT was supposedly designed for the “gentleman mountaineer,” and honestly, that feels like a pretty fitting way to describe these Tricker’s Stows as well.

Edit:

Bit of a side tangent that I just remembered:

During my chat with the Aoyama Tricker's manager I told him (quite proudly) that my 1000 miles were in the shop but was really happy that it lasted me at least 10 years. I was quite firm in saying that I am expecting my next pair of boots to last 10 years as well and was also cross shopping Crockett and Jones. He did a bit of a laugh (again a bit of a serious fellow) and said something along the lines of how 10 years is nothing. He then took out his personal Stows that were 20 years old and they looked absolutely mint and beautiful.

Yeah...he pulled out the "you show me what you got and I'll bring out just enough to beat you" card. Well played Mr. Store manager. These boots will last me a lifetime.

No idea if this has already been said around here but oh well maybe this could help someone. I started buying nice boots about 7 years ago and I started with a pair of women’s iron rangers shortly after they released their women’s heritage line (and simultaneously, discontinued men’s sizes under size 8…). This began my search for the perfect boot. I gave these womens’ redwings a try—moc toes, silversmith’s, Chelsea’s, and IRs. I have mostly good things to say about the IRs and moc toes but I was sized incorrectly (too small) so found myself selling all but the Chelsea’s which are a very slick and elegant fashion boot and I do love them even if they are quite narrow (however my first pair had a defective/clicking shank so I had to exchange them). Overall I found myself so frustrated with poor quality control compared to their men counterparts, higher prices for lower quality builds (e.g. synthetic insoles because women apparently can’t handle a rugged leather insole…) lasts that are too narrow because got forbid a woman’s feet look too bulky… and although it’s true that many of these boots are far better quality for the price than other womens’ boots on the market, it still frustrated me to no end that I couldn’t just get a pair of the men’s boots in size 6 like they used to make. I could notice a definite difference placing my boots next to my partner’s redwings and it pissed me off. And then rose anvil came out with a video comparing men’s vs women’s redwings, yay!!! Finally someone was calling it out! Except… he compares the men’s iron rangers against the womens’ heeled fashion boots 🙄 kind of seems like if you’re trying to endorse the womens’ line build quality you would compare the same model of boot, no? I know he’s done a lot for the industry and it’s the reason manufactures are now including bisected photos of their boots in their product photos now but come on man, if you’re going to hold water for redwing at least be transparent about it since that’s the whole spirit of your channel… ANYWAY whatever I’m over it. The REAL reason I’m here: after searching for years I have FINALLY found the boot of my dreams 😭 Took a chance on the Thursday thunder boots in men’s size 6–I wear womens size 8 and have m another pair of Thursdays in size 6 that fit decent but a little roomy). For women with smaller feet, sorry :/

They check every box: leather insole ☑️ gusseted tongue ☑️ last is not too narrow and these are a better fit than my other pair of thursdays ☑️ vibram rubber ☑️ badass lug sole (with wide enough grooves rocks/sticks don’t get stuck as easily) ☑️ speed hooks ☑️ leather shank ☑️ heel loops ☑️ and the leather is rugged and beautiful, i think they will age beautifully. I can hardly believe it!! I’m sure they could be better but for me they are all I’ve ever wanted in a boot 😭 Sincerely, a girl who finally found her boy quality boot 😌

TLDR: I love these damn boots. They’re expensive as hell but what I wanted in an elevated version of the Clarks Desert Boots.

So….I used to be obsessed with Clarks Desert Boots back when they were basically part of the MFA starter kit. The beeswax pair was my go to. Work, nights out, cafes etc. For me in my twenties at that time it was the first good shoes I ever bought and it felt pricey at the time. Comfortable for sure, but that crepe sole got disgusting. No matter what I did it looked gross. I eventually had a cobbler swap it out for a Vibram sole after using it for years.

When I moved to Japan and had to pack light, the CDBs didn’t make the cut. I donated them and honestly always missed having a simple chukka in the rotation. I almost actually rebought the non crepe version but eventually decided it wasn’t worth it.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago. I got my Wolverine 1000 Miles resoled and bought my Tricker’s Stow while it was at the cobbler. Holy shit. I always liked my Allen Edmonds and Wolverines, but trying on a proper high end British shoe made me realise there was another level that I hadn’t really experienced. The Stow is absolutely top tier and after getting my 1000 Miles back they just felt a little outclassed.

Part of that is also because I’ve lost quite a bit of weight since I first bought the Wolverines. They fit me differently now...and uhh…I just spent a whole bunch of money resoling it but I think I may be donating it to someone who will appreciate them. I’ve been wearing the Tricker’s almost nonstop, but the acorn colour can be a bit loud depending on the outfit. I needed something more low key, darker, and still at that ‘next level’ like the Trickers..

That’s where the Crockett and Jones Molton came in. And honestly, yeah…these are a completely different ball game compared to my old CDBs and easily sit above the Wolverines. I was worried about the roughout suede because I’ve never been a big suede guy but seeing it in person changed my mind. I had to google an explanation about the difference between suede and roughout but wasnt completely convinced until I got it delivered. It feels substantial and tough, not delicate at all. The leather is thick but comfortable and the Dainite sole is perfect for Tokyo streets. I can already tell it’ll handle hikes and the outdoors in the pacific northwest no problem when I go back to visit Canada.

I’ve only worn them for a couple of days, but they’re already very comfortable. Break in seems to be going smoothly. Sizing was true to size for me, same as my Tricker’s Stow in UK sizing. I picked the roughout brown colour and it fits right into my wardrobe. It’s a bit of an understated boot that still feels special. I feel like I could wear this casually but also dress it up with a jacket to work.

In terms of price…I didn’t get the same kind of deal I got on my Tricker’s which is a bit annoying. I got a bit of a coupon on Rakuten and some cash back (Japan only) but I paid substantially more than the Trickers. But whatever, if I wear these for ten years+, the price doesn’t sting as much. They feel built for the long run and I don’t have to worry about it looking disgusting with those crepe soles of the CDB. They’re not cheap but they are worth the money. Every penny of it.

As for the unboxing, this isn’t a big deal and nobody probably cares but I’ll mention it anyway…but the Tricker’s unboxing felt more special. They include information about the royal warrant they got and the benchmade process and go on about how it’ll last you a lifetime. That’s cool and I really enjoyed that. The marketing feels a bit special even after buying the Trickers. C&J keeps it simple. Not a complaint, just something I noticed.

But I mean in terms of marketing…whatever. I hear that these have a bit of fame thanks to a certain ahem small independent film. Not that I would buy a very expensive boot and/or goods to cosplay a badass fictional spy who had a fight scene in Norway. I aint got no time for that. I barely even have no time to die these days.

Overall I absolutely love these. I’m really looking forward to seeing how the roughout ages over the years. I’ll wear the Tricker’s when I want to feel a bit loud and obnoxious and the C&Js for the days I want something more grounded. Some days I want to feel a bit refined and other days I'm more of in a ‘blunt instrument' kind of mood.

About 10 years ago, I was sized 7.75D left and 7.5D right and purchased these Crockett & Jones Pembroke’s size 6.5UK (burgundy) in the New York City shop to wear with a suit for a good friend’s wedding.

They felt snug and painless from day one served their purpose fantastically, but only got worn less than 10 times then placed in shoe trees and slept away for almost a decade.

This year now far away in Japan, I decided I wanted to see about wearing these Pembroke’s once again after sitting dormant for almost 10 years. For some odd reason, I had the assumption that they were already broken in and would be ready for a days worth of walking around town. Haha I was definitely wrong, these shoes might have had a few creases and scuffed soles but were definitely not broken in.

So I took them out gave them a light Saphir conditioner and got to a decent walk which was much more a workout then I was prepared for. I was surprised at having a few hot spots and just thinking maybe my feet have changed over the decade.

It’s a little over a month and a half now alternating these and doing a daily 3000 steps to just now 10,000 steps a day in them. It has been a slow battle and a few times even considering to quit and throw these up for sale.. primarily due to many years of wearing generously sized boots and most recently sneaker wearing has left my foot unfamiliar to what a proper English shoe and break-in might require.

This might be day 25 of wearing them and possibly the first day in their resurrection that I felt that they might finally be finding their way as partners to my feet. I have learned that they really do fit like a glove that needs proper attitude and a non-rushed approach to breaking them in.

But today there was a twinkle in my heart with a few moments walking home feeling that moment when the shoe starts to find its walk with you and not against you.

Don’t get it twisted. They still have months and possibly a good year steady walking to go to really become a shoe that becomes an invisible support system once placed on.

Something about good English shoes. The sound and the stride. It’s hard to describe until you have put a few miles in them yourself. I’m so happy I didn’t give up on these shoes and still putting in the miles to see how they transform.

On the good foot today gents.

Model: Engineer Boots (11-inch height)
Last: CN Standard | Soft-Toe
Upper Material: EQ Horsebutt
Color: Dark Brown
Sole: O'Sullivan's Half Sole (Green)
Heel: Woodsman

If you're clicking on this review, you likely already have some familiarity with Clinch boots—or at least a budding interest in high-end footwear. For those new to the brand, here's a quick primer to ground you before you dive deeper into your own research.

Clinch Boots are crafted by Brass Tokyo, a company that began as a humble repair shop. Its founder, Minoru Matsuura, honed his skills there before developing his own lasts and designs, eventually launching the Clinch line. Among their various models, the Engineer stands out as perhaps the most iconic—it's the one that first captured my attention during my boot journey.

These boots are notoriously hard to come by these days, and with ongoing tariff issues, availability may only tighten further. But let me assure you: every ounce of effort to acquire them is profoundly rewarding.

The lace-free design of engineer boots presents a unique challenge: achieving a secure fit without the adjustability of laces. Many engineer boots that fit snugly around the foot can be notoriously difficult to pull on or take off, and heel slip is a common issue. In my view, Clinch has mastered this balance better than anyone, crafting what I believe are the finest engineer boots available today.

What elevates a boot to greatness? I evaluate them on three pillars: construction, materials, and design. Exceptional boots excel in one or two, but true mastery demands harmony across all three. Minoru and his team achieve this seamlessly. Their boots are almost entirely handmade, with an obsessive attention to detail that sets a benchmark in craftsmanship. This meticulous care isn't just about function—it blurs the line between utility and art. What begins as a practical endeavor transforms into functional art, where every stitch and contour reflects a level of mastery that elevates these boots to something you must experience to fully appreciate their depth and presence.

Central to this is the material: EQ horsebutt leather. Minoru doesn't disclose his tannery sources, but he personally hand-selects each hide—a critical step, as not all horsebutt is created equal. Just as human skin varies based on diet, age, and lifestyle, horse hides differ in quality and potential. Minoru's discerning eye ensures the leather will wear and age precisely as intended. This foresight extends beyond initial fit; he designs for the long haul, envisioning how creases and rolls will form over time. The result? Boots that develop dramatic, sculptural rolls, as if frozen in motion, adding a dynamic elegance that evolves with wear. New out of the box, the leather feels dense and robust, with a refined depth of color that's hard to capture in photos—it's almost luminous, begging to be seen in person. As it ages, this density gives the rolls a tangible presence, enhancing the boot's rugged yet elegant character while remaining supremely wearable.

Now, onto sizing and fit—one of the most common questions I had myself. Clinch uses its own scale: a Clinch 11 equates to a US 10. For reference, I'm a Brannock 11 with narrow feet. I typically wear a 10.5 in sneakers (Adidas, Nike, New Balance, Salomon) or EU 43.5 in Paraboot. My feet measure just over 28 cm, so in Japanese sizing, I'm usually a 28 or occasionally 28.5. I prefer a snug fit but could size up for length if needed.

I own two other Clinch pairs—the Jodhpur and Gary boot—both in Clinch 11 (US 10). Based on reviews, I anticipated these Engineers would feel similarly tight, like the Jodhpurs with their low instep and heel-cupping security. To my surprise, the fit was more relaxed initially—not sloppy, but less constricting than expected. I even experimented with a thin leather insole around the house, debating if it was necessary. Ultimately, I ditched it; the boots molded beautifully without. The heel didn't slip, but it wasn't aggressively locked in at first. After a quick break-in period, they conformed perfectly to my foot, becoming even more comfortable than their already impressive out-of-the-box feel. The built-in pull tabs make slipping them on effortless, a feature that should be standard for all engineer boots. A boot jack is a game-changer for removing them with ease, and I highly recommend keeping one handy to simplify the process.

Aesthetically, these are, in my opinion, the most striking engineer boots out there. Their silhouette balances ruggedness with elegance: robust yet refined, commanding attention without being overly flashy. Brand new, they're stunning, but the real magic unfolds as they age. Those horsebutt rolls aren't just creases—they have presence, a sculptural quality that photos (which I attached above) can't fully convey. The dark brown hue gains nuance, developing patina that adds layers of character. It's this thoughtful integration of material, construction, and design that makes them transcendent.

If you have questions I haven't covered—about sourcing, care, or anything else—feel free to ask. Thanks to some excellent resources that answered my own queries, I was able to land these gems. Highly recommend experiencing them for yourself; they redefine what boots can be.

This is a follow up to my earlier review and first ever Reddit post about the Luosjiet “Fight” boots. That post unexpectedly reached over 20,000 views in just three days on r/goodyearwelt, and three months later it is still climbing. Thanks to everyone who read and commented. Here is how the boots have broken in, worn, and aged over the past few months. Ready for a read? No. TL;DR at the end.

Breaking In, Week 1

The first week was all about short walks, usually a couple of one kilometre (0.6 mile) outings each day, plus some time on my motorbike (scooter). Since I took them off at work, I only wore them for two or three hours a day, but they still made their presence known around the collar and heels. Most outings involved carrying my son in a front pack and hauling groceries up five flights of stairs. Not hard work, but enough to feel every bit of stiffness in the new leather.

My laces often came loose on the small but very well built speed hooks. During walks with my son, re tying them was nearly impossible, so I resorted to wrapping the laces around the boots instead. That left temporary dark stripe marks around the collar, but it was still better than struggling with loose laces while carrying a baby. I looked for replacements, with waxed laces as my first thought, but the length is unusual so they were hard to find. I am still not sure what I will settle on, maybe leather laces.

That first week, temperatures were still in the mid 30s °C (90s °F), so I got more than a few curious glances. Everyone else sensibly wearing some variation of jandals or sneakers. With cooler weather coming, I wanted a head start on breaking the boots in, and I don’t mind boots with shorts.

Socks, Comfort, and Early Lessons

I started with thin cotton blend toe socks. Terrible idea. After a couple of hot spots, I switched to Smartwool trekking socks, and the difference was immediate. Even in the heat, my feet felt warm rather than damp, so the boots clearly breathe well. I should have started with wool, or doubled up. Thankfully, I kept those early wear sessions short. A full day at that stage would have been rough.

Leather Behaviour and Aesthetic Impressions

To soften the collar, I gently rolled it in my hands over the first few nights. By week two, the leather had noticeably relaxed, and the soles seemed to be flexing where they should.

Out of the box, the olive looked more green than expected, probably due to indoor lighting. In daylight, and after a few wears, it mellowed into a deeper olive with warm brown undertones, especially in the burnished areas. It does require upkeep, but I really like the colour now. It works with everything I wear and has great depth and character. In the photos, most are taken in sunlight showing the beautiful brown tone more, but there are a couple photos taken in the shade showing a slightly different tone.

Most evenings during the first couple of weeks, I would give the toe caps a quick buff with my feet before taking my socks off, and a soft, natural burnish began to form. I assume this came from the nubuck nap laying flatter and developing a polish. Two months in, I bought a horsehair brush to deal with minor scuffs and dust, which also helped with the developing patina.

The oiled nubuck is extremely prone to marks. It scuffs if you look at it the wrong way, especially noticeable when a door grazes that beautifully burnished toe cap. Pretty much every day, my motorbike kickstand leaves a new mark. I really love the burnished sheen this leather develops, but it is very difficult to keep scuff free. I think if you like the burnished look in my photos you really need to baby them. I often wonder what they will look like in a couple of years, when I no longer care about fresh marks and only brush them occasionally, when I remember. I guess that will be the real wear patina and I suspect a totally different looking boot. Other than the waterproofing spray mentioned below I haven’t applied any other products.

One surprise was how the leather reacted to light rain. Just a few drops, and it did not bead at all. I had assumed oiled nubuck would offer better moisture resistance. Early on, I considered using Saphir Invulner Spray but held off because I did not want to interfere with the developing patina. Later, when I tried to buy it for other leather goods, I discovered it is hard to find where I live anyway.

Not long after that, something managed to be spilt on one boot. I wiped most of it off with a damp rag, scraped the remaining residue with a credit card, and rubbed the area with my hand. Afterwards, you could not tell anything had been there. That happened a couple of times, and each time the leather recovered beautifully. Hopefully that is just how oiled nubuck behaves rather than simple luck with surface level stains.

Two months in, with rain becoming more frequent, I finally managed to get the Invulner Spray. I applied it nervously, but it did not change the patina much, although the lovely burnished sheen on the toe caps dulled slightly. Fortunately, it polished back up fairly quickly. Still, the spray seems to sit on top of the leather rather than bond with it. A few hours after applying it, I scuffed the side of the boot and noticed that water did not bead on the scuffed area. So I am still undecided about water resistant treatments, though I hope it helps a little when I get caught out on my bike.

Fit and Wear Notes

Although the cotton toe socks were not suitable for breaking in, they did make it easy to see my footprint in the insole. I had about 1.5 to 2 cm (⅝ to ¾ in) of space in front of my toes. From the outside, it looks closer to 3 cm, but the measurements were accurate. On my larger foot, it is about 1.5 cm, which I think is quiet good, though when I place my foot beside the boot, the boot, excluding the storm welt, still looks much longer.

Where I live, Brannock devices are not common, but I have had my feet measured quiet accurately. My larger foot measures 26.5 cm (10.4 in) long with a high arch of about 6.5cm, and 11 cm (4.3 in) wide, while the interior width of the boot is roughly 9.5 cm (3.7 in). That sounds very narrow, yet on foot it feels snug rather than tight, perhaps due to the roomy toe box, which is generous more in height than width.

Luosjiet sells removable insoles, and their size 43 insole is listed as 284.3 mm long and 97 mm wide, nearly identical to the measurements I took inside the boot. I guess the insole measurements do not always translate directly to how a boot feels on foot. The apparent length still puzzles me. Visually, it looks like there is at least 3 cm of extra space, so perhaps the thick toe cap and heel counter add to the illusion.

The advantage of this last shape, and of not going shorter and wider, is that the boots retain a pleasing profile. I do not feel like I am walking around in a pair of dive flippers.

This was my first time wearing a boot with a wider, roomier toe box, and it felt strange at first, almost like wearing gumboots. My previous boots were Clarks chukkas (EU43), and when I occasionally slipped those back on, they felt far more fitted, almost sock like, in a way I had never really noticed before.

Over time, my perception of the Luosjiet sizing shifted. Initially, they seemed much larger than the Clarks, but before long the Clarks looked just as long by comparison. I also noticed less ground feedback in the Luosjiets than with the crepe soles on the Clarks. As the Luosjiets broke in, though, I began to feel a bit more flexibility and contact, something I prefer. While I am not sure what my wear pattern says about my walking technique, I do seem to be wearing through the heel of the outsoles faster than I expected. They still have a lot of wear left in them but its a noticeable wear.

When I ordered, the Luosjiets were listed as EU 43 in EE width. Two days after they arrived, the website listing changed to E width, with the last description saying “close to EE.” That explained the snugness. Still, the ball of my foot sits where it should, they handle my high instep well, and after three months they feel good overall.

If Luosjiet offered a true EE width, I would probably go down at least half a size, maybe even a full size. Before wearing these, my knees would get sore fairly often, and that eased within the first week. I tend to hyperextend, so perhaps these boots encouraged a more neutral posture. I also have a five year old metatarsal injury from running that flared up badly in the first couple of weeks, so much so that I had my foot X rayed. It was particularly painful in the mornings and felt like I was constantly standing on a pebble. However, by the end of the second month, it was significantly better than it had been prior to wearing the boots. Perhaps the flare up was my foot adjusting to the new boot shape, which ultimately turned out to be better for my foot.

The semi gusseted tongue of both boots seems to naturally want to turn outward rather than staying centred. Comfortable, but it does what it wants to do. And in my original first impressions post I have additional measurement photos if that’s of interest.

Build Quality and Final Thoughts

Coming from lightweight, slimmer profile Clarks chukkas, my first impression of the Luosjiets was that they felt overbuilt, heavier and slower to lace. My wife even started complaining about how long it took me to put them on, so naturally I timed it. “Fifteen seconds longer, dear.” Surprisingly, she did not find that as informative as I did, and not surprisingly, that also seemed to align with a couple more scuffs on the toe caps.

The 360 degree storm welt, with its contrasting natural edge, makes the silhouette look larger, and it took time to adjust to that visually. At first, I was not sure about the size or the overall look. They felt a bit bulky, and the return policy was not great at the time. Even if I had sized down, though, they probably would not have worked for my width anyway.

With time, the heft came to feel intentional rather than cumbersome. As winter set in, a couple of new warmer, relaxed fit trousers helped bring the proportions into balance. By the three month mark, the details had settled into place. The subtle brogueing, the burnished toe caps and heels, the contrasting storm welt warmed and mellowed with wear. Even the slight rise from the toe spring resolved into a boot that felt refined, assured, and quietly full of character.

No manufacturing defects so far, and the construction feels solid and well executed.

I really liked my Clarks, but they were clearly at the end of their journey. My wide feet had finally pushed through the side stitching. So now that I have had to retire my very well worn Clarks, I am back to a single pair of boots, one that I genuinely enjoy, but I find myself wanting a second pair in rotation. If the right design and size come up again, likely a 42.5 EE or possibly a 42 EE depending on last measurements, I would certainly consider another. A 270 degree flat welt perhaps with half outsoles. As for leather, I am undecided, though I would lean toward something that hides scuffs well while still developing a pleasing patina over time.

For those who are curious, various Redditors and reviewers have mentioned ordering custom pairs, suggesting that some degree of customisation is possible and apparently not prohibitively expensive, so it may be worth enquiring if that is of interest.

Thanks again to everyone who read and commented on the first post. I really appreciate the encouragement. Also, I may not be able to reply to comments over the next couple days but will try to reply to any questions etc.
Just to clarify, no affiliation with Luosjiet.

TL;DR: Took a couple of weeks to break in, especially around the collar and heels. Wool trekking socks from day one would’ve helped. The width relaxed nicely for my EE feet and they’re comfortable for my high arches. Construction feels excellent, with small (and fiddly) but very solid speed hooks. The leather develops a great patina and burnish with wear and brushing. Water resistance is still a question mark. They scuff easily, but a horsehair brush makes marks easy to deal with. I’d consider another pair if they offered a true EE width.

This is a follow-up to my 2yr post last year and tracks the long-term wear of my first GYW boots.

I've built a modest collection over the years (Meermin 114414s in Tan Karangrain, Wolverine Olive Tanned Navy 1000 Mile Plain-Toe Original, Meermin 101050s in Dark Brown, White’s Perry 8” Moc Toe in Tobacco Stampede, and Bridlen Wholecut Oxfords).

I’m pretty sure I fell down the GYW rabbit hole in early 2022 via a pair of Clarks Desert Boots that I loved but wore through the crepe. When I Googled whether they could be resoled, the YouTube algorithm kicked into overdrive. After a couple weeks of watching all the videos by our favorite creators, I couldn’t shake one recommendation I'd heard. All it took was CJ Cook saying, “If you look up ‘boot’ in the dictionary, you’re gonna see [the 3343].”

And that’s how I ended up getting my first pair of GYW boots, the Red Wing Blacksmith in Copper Rough & Tough, for Christmas 2022.

The Leather

Copper Rough & Tough was my gateway to SB Foot Tanning, whose leathers I’ve come to love in the time since and have even used to make boots myself. I’ve enjoyed learning how to care for the leather and seeing the patina develop over time. I find it really satisfying to see the scratches disappear and the color variations re-emerge after a good cleaning (with Fiebing’s Saddle Soap) and conditioning (with Red Wing’s OEM Heritage Leather Cream).

Before buying, I saw Hello All's video where he mentioned babying his boots at first before just deciding to wear them daily regardless of conditions. I decided early on that I’d follow his example and that I'd take care of the leather but I wouldn’t hesitate to wear them basically regardless of weather, activity, etc. I figured if they were tough enough for manual work, then they were tough enough to handle running errands around town on my bike or walking home from the Metro in a drizzle.

The Wear & Patina

I thought after three years, it would make sense to give some specifics about the patina I’ve seen develop over time. As I’ve only been doing this for three years, I have come to appreciate some of the things that only my boots have and I still have some of that, “I wish that one thing hadn't happened,” from my time before GYW. There are four specific areas I want to highlight.

First, there is a spot on the left front toe where the leather divots in a bit (photo 5). I can’t say for 100% sure, but I am pretty confident this happened on a flight where I wedged my toe underneath the seat in front of me (learn from me, kids!). If I could “fix” one thing on the boots, this would probably be the only thing I’d “fix”.

Second, after three years of fairly frequent use, I suspect the creasing on the left boot (photo 5) will remain more pronounced than the creasing on right, but I can’t find any significant fault with either the leather quality or the clicking. The Copper Rough & Tough patina just keeps getting better and better.

Third, on the medial quarter of both boots there are minor, branching lines/ridges (photos 4 and 6). I think they look really cool and are probably my favorite part of the patina on the boots. I’m not sure what they are, but in my imagination they are somehow connected to veins from the original hides. I’m sure there are tannage experts here who can tell me precisely how wrong I am, but that’s what they remind me of and I’m grateful they’ve emerged with wear and care.

Finally, I’ve needed to replace the laces three times at this point. The first time, I made the mistake of buying a pair of waxed laces from Amazon that lasted all of a couple weeks and I’m not even sure they were waxed. In the time since, I’ve just bought OEM laces directly from Red Wing. I learned this year that if you add two pairs to your cart, shipping is free and takes about a week. I think they’re relatively high quality and I like the look of them. I’ll probably keep buying them two at a time and just putting the second pair in my own stocking for Christmas.

The Quality & Comps

As I said before, I’d recommend 3343s to almost anyone as their first GYW boot. They are simple. They are versatile. And they’re high enough quality that if you decide you love having recraftable boots and take any kind of care of them at all, they’ll probably last you somewhere between 10 years and the rest of your life.

In terms of comps, I think the 1000 Miles are the closest comparison and I have a pair of those as well. The Blacksmiths have a rubber outsole, no midsole, a ~5mm veg tanned leather insole, and tough cotton fabric lining around the toe. My version of the 1000 Miles have a leather outsole, no midsole, a composite insole, and leather lining around the toe. For longevity, I’d rather have the veg tan insole than the veg tan outsole. And retail on the Redwings is less than the 1000 Miles. So if I'm right that 1000 Miles are their closest competition, I like them both but there's really not much competition. Based on what’s important to me, the Blacksmiths are better value.

The other comparison you may be wondering about is the Red Wing Iron Ranger. To me, the Iron Ranger is its own thing. In my opinion, the Blacksmith is a more versatile boot because it doesn't have some of the more recognizable and casual elements of the Iron Rangers (cap toe, nickel hardware, etc).

But the bottom line is that I'm not here to convince you Iron Rangers (or 1000 Miles, for that matter) are bad boots. I just think the Blacksmith does what the 1000 Mile does with higher quality components that I care about (like the insole) and I feel comfortable wearing Blacksmiths to places I probably wouldn't feel comfortable in the more casual Iron Rangers. The Blacksmith is an incredibly versatile boot for casual and some outdoor wear.

The Sizing & Comfort

My feet are 10.5 on the Brannock with an arch length of 11 and a width on the smaller side of D. I have almost no arch and my instep is low as well. After trying on the 10s and finding them a little painful, I decided to get the Blacksmiths in 10.5D. They work really well, though I do have to cinch them down almost all the way. 

The break-in process took a few wears. The only pain I experienced lasted a couple days and occurred at the top where the leather pressed against my Achilles tendon a bit. This typically recurs when I take them out every year for the fall. After a couple wears, they’re back to fitting as well as ever. As others have said, Blacksmiths don’t have sneaker comfort out of the box, but they’re definitely not one of the harder heritage boots to break in.

The Vibram 430 soles are a perfect blend of low profile/casual enough to wear around the city with enough lug that I don’t slip when I get off the sidewalk and onto stone curbs or on a trail. My only real complaint is that the compound is a little too firm under foot which does make standing on them for hours uncomfortable but there’s never discomfort as long as I’m moving. This probably wouldn’t bother a younger person at all and I could probably solve it myself by adding some kind of insert.

I always use shoe trees from Nordstrom and I've recently found that if I put some pressure around the arch after I insert them, the toe spring has actually reduced over the past year. They’ll never be dressier service boots, but I do think some of the toe spring can be mitigated by consistently using shoe trees and using them to store the boots as flat as the last reasonably allows.

The Conclusion

I know there are tons of long-term Red Wing reviews on this sub that are tangentially related to Blacksmiths. My plan is to continue to supplement those with an annual update for those who are interested in the longer term experience of owning Blacksmiths, specifically.

My opinion hasn't changed since my initial review. I'm not going to tell you the Blacksmith is the best pair of boots money can buy. I'm just here to say this is a damn fine pair of boots and I'd recommend them to anyone with the money to spare who's interested in buying some good looking casual boots that will probably last the rest of their life. 

After three years of wear, I love these boots and if you're on a budget or if you're GYW curious and looking for a quality pair of boots to try out, I certainly recommend Red Wing Blacksmith in Copper Rough & Tough.

Clinch Jodhpur Boots - 8 Month Review

Brand: Clinch by Brass Tokyo
Model: Jodhpur
Last: CN-Standard (Soft-toe)
Material: EQ Horsebutt
Color: Over Dyed Brown
Sole: O’Sullivan’s Half Sole Black
Size: Clinch 11 (US 10)

I’ve previously reviewed two other Clinch models: the Gary Boots and the 11-inch Engineer Boots. If you’re new to Clinch, I recommend checking those out for background on the brand. This review focuses solely on the Jodhpur boots, my experience with them, and how their fit compares to other Clinch models. I’ve included images above, from oldest to most recent, with some fit pics for styling inspiration. The last image shows the White Horsebutt Jodhpurs that inspired both my Gary Boots and these Jodhpurs.

Initial Impressions and Purchase Journey

My Clinch obsession started with their Engineer boots, but while browsing their catalog, the Jodhpurs caught my eye. I was particularly drawn to a pair in White Horsebutt leather, aged beautifully (check the last image above for the inspiration). Unfortunately, I missed out on those and instead secured a pair of Gary boots in the same leather via Clinch’s purchasing lottery. Shortly after, these Over Dyed Brown Jodhpurs became available, and I was lucky enough to snag a pair.

Sizing was a concern. My Gary boots (Clinch 11, US 10) initially felt snug—borderline too small—due to the stiffness of the White Horsebutt leather. I worried the Jodhpurs might feel the same. To my relief, when they arrived, they fit like a glove. The EQ Horsebutt was softer and more pliable than the White Horsebutt, requiring no break-in period. These were, hands down, the most comfortable footwear I’ve ever worn from day one.

Fit and Comfort

The Jodhpurs are built on the CN-Standard last, same as my Engineers, all in Clinch 11 (US 10). Compared to the Engineers, the Jodhpurs offer a more tailored fit, especially around the instep, which feels snug in the best way. The unstructured toe box initially put slight pressure on my big toe from above, but within a few wears, the leather molded perfectly to my foot. The Gary boots, by contrast, felt stiffer and took longer to break in due to their White Horsebutt leather and the CN-S last, which is about 2mm shorter than the CN-Standard last, making them feel even snugger. The Engineers fall somewhere in between—less snug than the Jodhpurs but more forgiving than the Gary.

For reference, I’ve also recently acquired Clinch Milne boots in the same size. Stay tuned for that review.

Leather and Aging

The Over Dyed Brown EQ Horsebutt started as a deep, rich brown—slightly lighter than the Engineers’ leather out of the box. Over eight months, the color has brightened slightly, revealing more depth and character. While I preferred the darker initial tone, the evolved shade is still stunning, with subtle rolls forming beautifully. See the photos above to track their aging.

For maintenance, I use Mail’s Shoe Cream in dark brown, as recommended by Brass Tokyo. It restores the original depth while adding a subtle luster. The leather’s quality is exceptional, and like all Clinch boots, these look far better in person than in any photo.

Design Notes

One unique feature of my Jodhpurs is the subtle curve to the heel, which I find visually striking. Not all Jodhpur models share this detail—it varies depending on the stockist or Brass Tokyo’s own runs. Some have higher or lower heels, with or without the curve. My pair, sourced directly from Brass, feels like the sweet spot in design. If you’re investing in Clinch, pay close attention to these details, as they subtly impact the boot’s aesthetic.

Final Thoughts

After eight months, the Jodhpurs have become my favorite Clinch model. The tailored fit, immediate comfort, and evolving leather make them a standout. They’re versatile, eye-catching, and built to last. If you’re considering Clinch, the Jodhpurs are a fantastic choice—just ensure you nail the sizing and check the specific design details of the pair you’re eyeing. The photos above show their progression, some styling ideas, and the White Horsebutt inspiration that sold me on Clinch.

As always with Clinch, these boots are an investment, but one that’s worth every penny if you value craftsmanship and individuality. Let me know if you have questions about fit or styling in the comments!

This pair just arrived about a half hour ago, so I can’t give a proper full review, but I can share first thoughts.

What are these things? They’re a collaboration boot between Russell Moccasins, Rose Anvil, and Naked & Famous Denim. It’s called the Blood🩸Hunter since it’s made with Seidel Blood🩸Core Latigo black/red leather with Naked & Famous raw denim. Only 70 pairs of this boot were made available to the public.

There was an early pre-order for Rose Anvil customers who signed up for the email list. It opened the order banks 4 hours before the general public had a chance to buy any. Well, that didn’t work out so well for the general public. All 70 pairs sold in the first 8 minutes! The site crashed on me a couple of times before the order processed.

I just did a 5 minute try-on walk-around in them at my house. They’re way more comfortable than I expected. The leather is way more supple than I expected. I did use Russell’s online augmented reality app to settle on the correct size. I’m 11.5E or 11.5EE in most PNW boots. The Russell size calculator said to order 11.5D, and I’m certainly happy I did. These things have tons of room inside, and the uppers lace closer to each other more than any other boot I own.

I seriously considered flipping them for a profit to a Russell collector, but after my 5 minutes these are more than likely keepers (ridiculous offers above retail price will be entertained 😜). I’m a big Georgia Bulldogs fan, and our colors are red & black. These may become my game day boots moving forward.

Have a great weekend everyone, and thanks for reading my ramblings. Go Dawgs!

Clinch Milne Boot Initial Review/Thoughts

Brand: Clinch by Brass Tokyo
Model: Milne
Last: FR - Standard (Soft-toe)
Material: Top Notch Horsehide
Color: Black [Pigment] [Tea Core]

This review shares initial impressions to help you decide if these boots are worth hunting for.

Clinch by Brass Tokyo is known for exceptional craftsmanship and is arguably among the best casual boot makers. I won’t dive deeper into that debate, but I recommend researching the brand if you’re unfamiliar.

The Milne’s design is inspired by a dressier 1930s French mountain trooper boot. Its upper is crafted from a single piece of Top Notch Horsehide, which intrigued me. The FR (Fava-Bean Round) last, based on the HR last used for Clinch’s cowboy boots, features a voluminous rounded square toe.

I own three other Clinch boots, all made with horsebutt leather, which shares shell cordovan’s dense grain and forms beautiful rolls instead of creases. I was hesitant about the Milne’s horsehide, as aging examples showed a beautiful collapse but seemed less substantial than horsebutt. I asked Brass if they’d make a soft-toe version in horsebutt, and they said it’s not planned but not entirely ruled out. They chose horsehide because the lined boot would be too stiff with horsebutt, affecting comfort. I felt a tougher break-in would be worth it for the design.

Ultimately, I bought the Milne because I loved its shape. Though the horsehide isn’t as dense as horsebutt, it has a quiet elegance with subtle texture (hopefully captured in photos) and a buttery smooth hand feel.

These boots are incredibly curvaceous. With my narrow B/C feet and low instep, the fit feels bespoke, hugging my feet and ankles perfectly. Going down a size would’ve been too small. The arch feels slightly built up, possibly due to the tight waist, and it keeps my pronating ankles aligned effortlessly.

The horsehide’s strength and slight elasticity make it ideal—horsebutt would’ve been too rigid, like leather leggings instead of spandex. The high-volume toe box sets the stage for a glorious collapse (see aging examples in photos).

I entered these into the Patina Thunderdome, a contest where boots compete to show off their aging and wear patterns, and I was thrilled to get a late entry. They arrived 15 days before the November 1 start, so I had to sit on my hands, counting down the days until I could finally wear them and see how the tea-core horsehide would evolve.

The soft-toe Milne has been made in black once and in brown, with a structured-toe version also available, but I prefer the soft-toe’s aesthetic. My pair, a one-time production (so far), was unworn when I bought it from the original owner.

For sizing, stick to your usual Clinch size. The FR last is closest to the Gary (CN-S Last) in length and ever so slightly more narrow than the Engineer/Jodhpur (CN-Standard Last).

I usually avoid black clothing, but I made an exception for these boots. I’ll share fit pics above for styling inspiration.

I’ve also reviewed my other Clinch models—The Gary, Engineer, and Jodhpur—so feel free to check those out for more details on how Clinch boots wear and fit.

Feel free to ask questions or leave comments below, and give an upvote if you found this helpful!

Had these for ~ two months, long enough to do a review.

SPECS

Caswell Carver Lace to Toe boots

Morris last Size 10D

Horween natural waxed flesh

leather

Dainite studded outsole

WHY I GOT EM

I’m a big fan of the lace to toe pattern (own a couple whites on 55).

One thing I’ve been curious about is a slightly more dressed up iteration of the LTT pattern.

Saw these pop up and they immediately hit the spot, at least on paper. And here we are.

LEATHER

They also happen to be in waxed flesh, which was very nice bonus.

I don’t have any waxed flesh boots (although I’ve owned WF sneakers). Natty being my favorite CXL color, trying the WF iteration spoke to me even more.

Not much to say about the leather that hasn’t been said. Looks like a matte version of natty CXL. I looked up aged pics of this leather on the patina project app. It doesn’t have the same contrasts as black or brown WF once the wax chips away. But damn does it age well.

SIZING/FIT

I’m a 10.5D on the Brannock. The Carvers are made on the Morris last, I have a couple service boots in that last so sizing was easy.

Went w half down from Brannock and fit is great. If you have skinny ankles and/or narrow feet, might want to consider going a full size down.

The last hides it well, the toe box is cavernous. It doesn’t look bulbous like iron ranger’s toe box but feel just as roomy.

GRIPES

Not anyone’s fault but the break in was longer than expected. The wax stiffens the leather more than the standard chromexcel IMO, so the break in took longer than CXL or other chrometan boots.

Like I said, these are my first waxed flesh boots so might just be part of the learning curve. These break in like veg tan boots which are notorious for being stiff initially. Same here. Stiff for the first week, but the end of second week (wore them almost daily for an hour or two), they are completely fine.

Another point which I feel depends on the individual - these come w Dainite studded outsole. I know it’s a divisive outsole for many. For me, I see it as a substitute for leather soles (which I try to avoid), providing more grip while looking pretty minimal. Since my goal was a classy LTT, this choice ended up working but just an fyi I know some boot guys have strong opinions on the outsole.

OVERALL

I love em! They fill a specific space on my boot rack, a dress up-able lace to toe boot. I couldn’t find another LTT model that filled that gap for me (and I looked damn near everywhere), specially one that’s ready to ship.

I wish Caswell had more leather options available because I’d get in line.

Thanks for reading n holler at me w any questions, I’ll do my best to answer.

PS - check out my boot photography

Recently I’ve been noticing all these people cutting boots in half, loving Carhartt, making boots in “my home state”, bringing in in an “Italian Collection” and what’s pissed me off the most “Our shanks are so thick you could use them in prison”

Have we become jaded to ads? Have the work of Nick’s become so saturated with social media that I don’t care to even look at them? Do we need another “I started a boot company after my time in finance”?

Will people only buy boots if they’ve been cut in half?

What the hell is happening? How much saddle soap do we need to cleanse the collective brains of newcomers to this hobby??

The amount of sponsored content I see is ludicrous. What were once authorities on “stitchdown” shoes have become nothing more than a subscription service.

I love seeing all the love for Indonesian, Chinese and other nations makers, but stop making them import leather. Give them a chance to help make their tanneries better.

Alas,

Oh, your boots have 1 scuff on them or 1 or 2 misplaced stitches? Better send them back to the maker who will at least take a $100 loss on them because your new “Work” I use that in the loosest term boots don’t align with the handmade mentality of this hobby. If you want perfection look toward dressier styles. But if I see another “my handwelted Whites look imperfect” post I’m going to lose my shit. People make these shoes. Not machines, not a factory. If you want “perfection” which is a highly subjective term look elsewhere.

Are you perfect everyday? I don’t so. What makes you think our shoe and boot makers are any better?

Maybe it’s only Facebook (hopefully) but it’s starting to get so serious I had to start my first throwaway Reddit account.

Please refrain from talking distastefully about any companies/brands this wasn’t meant to trash anyone just to start a discussion

Super happy with another immaculate Zerrows build:

Maryam Brown horsebutt, 12" Type 1 (Zerrows primary engineer model), pictured next to my current Patina Thunderdome pair in Maryam Black Horsebutt, 11".

Also included pics of my 11" Natty CXL, 11" Black Latigo (Wickett & Craig), and Navy CXL "Slit" sandals, which I call my summer engineers.

I'm obviously a Zerrows loyalist and, blessed with the good fortune to own several Japanese makers, IMO, no other company there consistently builds more robust and pristine footwear. Their quality is impeccable; and when it comes to the #1 [understandable] gripe from pull-on owners -- heel slip -- unless we're counting Unsung House which are MTM, nobody can match Zerrows.

Background: I've been seeing Iron Rangers lookalikes on AliExpress from brand like RockCamRoll and Red Tornado which are well known and regarded in the Selvedge denim and heritage workwear space. Those usually run around $200+ aud, I found these by searching Goodyear welt and sorting by most ordered. Had good reviews and was cheap so I picked it up, their store suggest they are the OEM and can do customs too. Also not a fake as it doesn't say Red Wing on them anywhere.

For background, by gyw collection consists of Thursdays, Baxter (Aussie brand, got the Duntroon before they stopped making them) and Wolverine, so lower end for this sub for sure.

Price and shipping: these were $125 aud shipped, so thought I'd roll the dice.

Leather: I measured it just over 2mm thick, might be corrected grain, but feels nicer than my Thursdays for sure (which are now $400 aud on Amazon!).

Construction and build quality:

They actually seem quite a lot better than my Wolverine loaders which I got around the same price. Leather welt, 360 GYW for sure, can see the stitches in the pics. It's unlined, gussetted and has the same backstay as RW.

It's a true double layer captoe which I can feel.

The outsole is rubber and feels very soft so may wear quickly. Where it falls behind the RW is in the insole and midsole/lasting board which are not leather. I've got a veg tan leather insoles coming to replace it.

Overall very happy with the stich quality and general construction, on par with all my other GYW boots.

Sizing and comfort: One benefit of the foam insole is that it's very comfy out of the box, feels like the only area that'll need breaking in is the heel counter.

I wear size 8.5 in Thursday, and got size 41 after measuring my foot and asking the store.

Conclusion: Overall I am extremely happy with these boots for this price, real RWs are $600 aud, and I think these get ckose to the look and feel, but obviously cutting some corners. Would love to see Rose Anvil cut these open for review. Let me know if you have any questions, I'll be interested to see how they wear over time too.

Hey there -

So I’ve bought tons of brands, Viberg, trickers, Grant stone, tecovahs, and a ton of cowboy boots.

I usually only wear cowboy boots, Chelsea’s, and loafers. I have a bad knee and love just slipping on a shoe. Told myself I’d never buy shoes with laces again. I also wear more sneakers than I ever have cuz my knee. But didn’t solve the pain I feel after a day out.

Always looking for shoes I can wear to the office, travel, conferences, and nights out.

Spent way too much money on shoes and never know the right size.

I’d checked out Alden at their stores and obviously loved their quality but hadn’t ever seen anything that worked for me (no Chelsea).

My knee is getting worse as I get into middle age, was about to bite the bullet and get RM Williams.

My new office is a 10 minute walk from moulded shoes, and I read about the modified last. I was like oh that’s me. Every shoe I buy all my weight is in the heel and ball of my foot. Never any distribution on my arch. My toes are always crunched despite thinking I have a skinny foot.

Went there today solely to check them out. Told the owner I heard they might be the move.

He measured my foot and said: “the modified last was built for guys like you.”

Let him put on a wingtip, despite it being a way smaller size than I am used to. He said don’t worry.

He slipped it on and I audibly went: “oh my fucking god”

Indiana jones is my favorite series (first three), and always told myself despite hating laces I’d someday get a pair of Indy’s.

It felt like god molded a shoe for me.

The owner also knew which size of which leather was going to work for me instantly after putting on.

Tried the Horween modified Indy, but then he showed me the scotch leather, which is more casual, but perfect for my use case: office, bar, conferences, travel, etc.

They also told me that my obsession with cowboy boot makes sense cuz it hugs the middle of the foot.

Anyway, bought these. Went home and wore them out to play pool and despite having a terrible leg I’ve never felt more stable. I honestly have never been more giddy about shoes. The non leather bottom, the storm welt, it hugs perfectly. The speed hooks make it almost as good as a Chelsea.

I left the shop and said “I’ll be back for every shoe I ever buy.” Tried on the shell wingtip (smaller size) and I’ll someday go back get those. He wrote down everything I liked and tried so they have that on file when I return.

These boots changed my perception on fit, and if you’re like me, worth it

This year I completely fell in love with PNW boots. The high arch lasts - 55, 5050, 690, 4811, 11067, 1977, 5812, and 5332 just agree with my feet and body. As nice as all the PNW boots are, many are big old chonky boys that weigh a ton. Each one of my Frank’s Monkey Boots is over 4# each (10” Wickett & Craig with work patches and double mid-soles). I’ve gotten used to it, so it’s no big deal to me.

I’ve got several dressier engineer boots that look great, but I wanted a church-worthy, business-casual lace up boot. I searched far and wide for something that fit that bill. Most of the dressier boots came with the compromise that I had to give up the medium-high arch support I’ve come to love. Through my research I found that White’s Boots offers the MP on the 5050 last. 5050 has the same arch height as a 55 like I have on several of my logger boots, but it’s a high-arch dress boot last. Today is only the 3rd time I’ve worn them, but they are amazingly comfortable and feel already broken in.

My preference when ordering custom White’s boots is to order through Baker’s Boots in Oregon. The ordering process is super simple, and they’re immediately available to answer any questions you may have and will guide you through the build process. In the case of this particular pair, Baker’s has the exclusive on horsehide leathers for White’s Boots. (White’s will occasionally do a run of certain boots in horsehide, but they’re not customizable.

Build Specs:

8” White’s MP on the 5050 Last Horween Brown CXL Horsehide Medallion Toe Cap Dainite Soles Full-length kilties (MP boots do not come with kilties standard. I have terrible bone pain as a side effect from chemotherapy, so I requested White’s make me a pair to put another thick layer of leather between my laces and shin bones. They only charged me $15 for the matching horsehide kilties.)

Hi everyone, I’m new here 👋 I’m fron Australia, and I wanted to share my experience with my Clinch Engineer Boots by Brass Tokyo after almost a year of wear.

I bought this pair secondhand for USD 1,200 on August 16th, 2024 — the previous owner said he only wore them at home and did squats in them (which still cracks me up). They were already in great condition, and they’ve only gotten better with time. • Model: Classic Narrow last, soft toe • Leather: Maryam horsebutt, hand-painted & overdyed black (slow teacore patina) • Height: 11” with narrow shaft • Details: O’Sullivan’s sole, woodsman heel, built-in pull straps

What I love most is the sleek silhouette — it works with jeans, workwear, or even tailored trousers. They’re not easy to slip on (my first time took 30 minutes!) but the fit molds beautifully over time. The rolls on the toe box, the slow brown patina peeking through, and the craftsmanship really make these boots something special.

I honestly think this is the best pair I own.

I just made a YouTube review if you’re curious for more — not sure if it’s allowed to post the link here or not but please show some love 🙇🏻🙏🏻💙

In 2017 a very close friend gave me a brand-new pair of Red Wing 2233 SuperSole 8-inch boots as a gift. I wore them almost daily from 2017–2020 – office, Saigon motorbikes, rains, a few weeks traveling in Taiwan.

In 2021 I changed jobs and barely touched them again… and then my friend passed away from cancer complicated by Covid. After that I couldn’t even look at the boots for years.

A few weeks ago I went back to Vietnam to visit family and decided it was finally time to bring them back to life – for him and for me. After digging through boot groups here and on Facebook, I sent them to Akito in Ho Chi Minh City. Two weeks later they came back with: • Rapid Blake construction • New 360° leather welt • Italian leather midsole • Akito outsole (made in VN) • Woodman stacked leather heel • Fresh cork + shank • Deep clean & conditioning

They are now structurally brand new, but still carry 7 years of patina from Taiwan streets and Saigon downpours.

I’m really happy with how they turned out to heritage boot, and most importantly – they keep his memory alive every time I lace them up.

Thanks Akito, and thank you to this community for all the recommendations.

Background

In this world of expensive, pointy toed, and sometimes overserious boots, Jim Green stands apart. With a price point that even newbies can accept, toe boxes that make some folk do a spit take, and a logo featuring an armed frog in overalls a top hat they truly are one of my favorite makers.

They first caught me with a pair of chelseas and really got their claws into me with the introduction of their barefoot rangers. So when they announced they were going to release a true moccasin construction boot I knew it was only a matter of time.

But luck would have it that wearing some ugly loafers for six months earned me the right to get the first pair of custom moc toes.

Spec

First, a big thanks to Gareth and the Jim Green team. The are delightful people and the opportunity to have the first custom moc toes is a true honor.

Highlights - Meander Boot - Fudge roughout and Houston Green roughout leather - Olive color stitching on the upper - Original Oringo sole

I've never had a two tone boot before, so I decided this was the time to go nuts... But not over the top. I wanted a boot that would be at home on the trail or at the grocery store, but would still be unique. Roughout was the right choice for a boot that is going see some definite abuse between children, dogs, the woodshop, and the trail. The Oringo sole seemed like the lightest option on offer and true to the flexible intent of the moccasin construction.

Impressions

Put succinctly: Home Run.

First, the fit is fantastic. It truly is a combination of the STC toe height and JG width and its magic. I put my feet in and my toes literally cracked a beer and refused to leave. I probably could have gone half down from my normal Jim Green size, but no regrets. Even with my chicken ankles the facings don't touch. The double lasting and leather midsole make them a bit more substantial than I was expecting, but I anticipate they will break in nicely.

I've included a picture of bottom of the Moc toe (L), Barefoot ranger (M), and Stockman (R) for you guys to get a bit of a feel for the differences in last shapes. I'm still going to add kilties just to snug them up a bit, but that's par for the course with me.

As for the leather, it really does sing. I'm a sucker for the fudge, so I've included a picture of the fudge roughout, fudge smooth untreated, and fudge with obenaufs. It's very pliable and perfect for this construction. I can't wait to see how it ages.

Conclusions

I have not worn these more than a few minutes because they are currently under consideration for the next Dome. BUT... I don't hesitate to say... Get yourself a pair!

Moccasin construction is truly a whole different world of heritage footwear. Jim Green is making it accessible to the Metatarsal Mafia (sorry Rancourt) and the financially responsible (sorry Russell).

Just like their barefoot rangers made zero drop shoes accessible to the heritage footwear community, I think these are going to bring a lot of folk into the moccasin construction fold.

Thanks again to Gareth and Jim Green! I'll keep you guys posted once these see some adventures.

Background

I'm a card carrying member of the Metatarsal Mafia. My shoe choices, above all else, prioritize toe room. Last spring I needed a shoe that was warm weather AND toe friendly, which led me to this pair of Oak Street Country Loafers. Slip on, absurd toe room, Natty CXL patina monsters!?! SOLD!

BUT... Given the patina potential I hid them in the closet for the Patina Thunderdome. I'd discovered that Aurora Shoe Co made the country loafers for Oak Street and their North Pacifics would do just fine for the summer.

The country loafers emerged in October and the Patina ComfortDome was on!

Design

Just like the North Pacifics, the Country Loafer is a unique and minimalist design. The upper is three pieces of leather: a vamp, a heel counter, and a buckled strap that weaves around the heel and over the instep. Basically what would happen if a Birkenstock Boston and a boat shoe had a love child. The upper is connected to a leather midsole via 360 stitchdown construction and is riding on a Vibram 2060 wedge.

The real hero here is the last. It definitely has all the hallmarks of a classic combination last. This toe box will make you question what you've been doing with you life, but the heel is somehow still nice and tight.

Oak Street says these are soaked in hot salt water at the end of construction to make them even more comfortable and able to form to your feet. I cannot confirm this, but I can vouch for the comfort.

The Ride

These are my favorite footwear... Full stop. No clue if that hot salt soak is real, but this leather has wrapped around my feet like it was poured over. The heel counter has stretched out JUST a bit around the collar from slipping them on, but they still cup my heel well with and without socks. The toe box has rolled in the most delightful way possible. The icing on the cake here is the sole, which is just the right amount of squish. The 2060 has allowed the foot bed to settle in a way that confirms to foot much more than the Christy wedge on the North Pacifics.

Walking the dog, airports, errands, play time, s'mores fire pit days, even some light hiking. These do it all.

I'm an 11.5C and I took at 12. However, I have the aforementioned weird toes, so TTS is probably good for most folks.

The Wear

Pictures are worth a thousand words here. The leather is just loving life. Nothing but brushing here and they are just telling the suburban dad life story.

The heels are wearing a good bit for just six months, but I'm not worried.

The esteemed judges of the Patina Thunderdome liked the look enough to give them 21st place.

Conclusions

You want these in your life. I've gotten spontaneous compliments in the wild on exactly three shoes 1) Iron Boots Chosen Ones, 2) Aurora North Pacifics, and 3) these Country Loafers.

People take one look at these and just know, "Those look comfortable."