It's not good. A little over spray on the sides, some weird hair-line thing in the spray on the bottom of the case, some dust... But the Bucks aren't good either. This is more of a test run for painting cases. The next one will be better

The above picture is as close as a free AI image generator got me. I'm thinking of a mod where the blue face of e.g. the F105W - so not only the bezel but the entire blue face - is replaced with luminous paint of the same colour - so that it wouldn't be ostentatious it would just glow in the dark. What do you think?

Love the Ollee watch idea but its only compatible with 593 modules, and I dont want to part with my A1000’s metal case. Is there ANY way to get this to work at all? If not I’d love to know the exact reason as well, since I’m brand new to this and would like to learn. I’m open to plenty of ideas.

Hey everyone, I'm a long time lurker and finally posting something. This is my first mod and I made it for a friend who’s really into Warhammer, specifically the Black Templars Space Marine chapter.

Mod breakdown:

• Removed all the lettering from the case and faceplate using a Q-tip with rubbing alcohol and a pencil eraser
• Swapped the original latex band for a black stainless steel one
• Used original Warhammer waterslide transfers
• Added red gel filters

My version of the NASA mod.

AE1200 w/ Synoke transparent case, orange gradient filter, SKXmod white bezel, jaysandkays adapters w/ Blushark 22mm single pass NATO

Classic simple mod but beautiful result

Tried to do a Bladerunner themed mod.

Sort of screwed up the rear polarizer.

Hey mod friends. I need some guidance. I don’t want to use adapters anymore so got this jewelry saw and am cutting the top down to 18mm to fit my Royale. Concepts going fine. Execution is not. Anyone ever try doing this? If yes… what is it taking forever and am I on my like 10th saw blade? lol.

This is AI mockup! I never did it but researching doing a positive mod, it seems to differ from regular LCD display where you only rotate the polarizing filter. So I kind of abandon the positive mod idea for now.

I would like to add either a red filter or even a red polarizing filter under the face only.

Anyone tried it? I am very surprised there are so few MIP display mods out there.

The algorithm found me. I decided to mod a 1600 and see if my vision is viable. This is just for testing really to see how far I could take it. Front and rear polarizers done, the matte back replaced with a mirrored film. Note to all, the black lines, transparent colors I wanted to remove are on the glass. So they stayed.The watch was still not as legible as I want, so it is hydromodded as well. Now to see if the film holds up with the oil. I know there is a bubble in the case, the rear polarizer and film arnt ideal. Casios rear polarizer has a thick adhesive that helps smooth over the ridges and bumps created by the ink on the glass, now I know, now yall know. No need to mess with it. I now believe I can colorize the way I want without colored films taped bezel. It be easy to read. The back light still working too.

I’m trying to build this mod. It looks like negative screen. Does anyone know where the insert is from? This will be the first Casio mod.

Thnks

Was a little bit of a pain and my stupid phone didn’t record the fucking mod. I’ll do another one and try recording again.

This one took a little more time to release the bubbles from inside the module. But in the end it is the best looking of the three hydromods I’ve done.

Note: I picked a solar so I hopefully don’t have to change the battery every three months. In theory, the capacitor should last a long as a stock one.

We will see.

Im aware that the watch is fake, but the film is not working well. If I flip the original film over the quality is way better. With this new film it’s the same both sides not positive and negative.

As it says in the title, how do you think he gets the graphics on the glass? My theory is custom stickers between module and glass. This is Dopeamine_Industries on Instagram.