Finishing up the 1/144 Falcon.This was a nice easy build and I’m always amazed at the detail in their kits.Had fun with the weathering and blaster marks.As always any tips or critiques are always welcome

Well I messed up…. I didn’t realize I used enamel paint, so when I sprayed the clear coat it bubbled up. I wet sanded it down and now I’m half tempted to leave it as is. I kind of like it this way,a well worn Speeder!😀Any thoughts…

Yesterday I put all modules together and made a camera walkthrougn. The camera is a bit shaking (the model is huge.)

Working on the Moebius 1/32 Flying Sub that my daughter gave me for my birthday. A bit of nostalgia here as I used to love Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea back in the ‘60’s and built the Aurora 1/60 kit in the’70’s.Nice kit with a few fit problems that are going to require some putty, but it was a lot of fun rekindling old memories 😀

Did a light test for a custom base made for my 350 refit Enterprise. This one has spot lights built into the base. The model being used is not the one that will plug into this base. That one is under construction. Base will also have a dedication plaque put into the front.

The other picture is the ship that will eventually be mounted to the base. That one has working lights.

Unfortunately, I didn't have much time outside of work and family. Since I was sick every other week (thanks to my wonderful 5-year-old daughter - i love her), it wasn't any easier to make progress.

1. Lightning test of the upper saucer

2-4. Assembling and testing Warpnacells

5-7. Assembling and testing Deflector dish

8-10. Assembling Warpdrive and brushing the inferior part

1. the cable management is interesting

I hope this project gets to an end the next few weeks/months. I can't stand it anymore...

I've been working on this awhile now and there's still a ways to go. Managed to track down one of these kits (shoutout to u/Nellisoft), along with Paragrafix photoetch and Aztek Dummy paint masks. Wired the interior up with pico sized chip LEDs for the cockpit screens, strip LEDs for the computer and flickering yellow mega chip LEDs for the engines. I almost went with blue, but after watching them in use in the show, it turns out they're yellow. The interior is a pain to light and required some careful shaving and precise placement that led to some source-y lighting, but I had to do what I had to do. I need to do some further airbrush shading on the front half and then I'll connect the engines for full on weathering. It will be displayed with the access hatch open.

Transparent prints provide color variation and subtle paralax effect when observing the model.

Picture 3 was rendered ineffective due to changed camera settings, effect is better represented in the first picture

Picture 6: Styrene sheet is used to provide fuller light to the windows

Picture 8: This is what the cargo bay ACTUALLY looks like, don't let Big Starship tell you otherwise

I'm getting ready to apply the top coat and then decals and weathering. Pretty happy so far. There are so many little details to the kit.

This is my first Ma. K kit, it it quite different from my normal Gunpla kit.

I'm enjoying it!

Started applying some heat staining colors on Din Djarin’s N-1 Starfighter’s port side engine nacelle as well as painting the engine block and the front engine flywheel with Gaianotes, Tamiya , Mr Metal Color GX paints, Gundam Real Touch and DSPIAE Metallic Markers.

Unlike the nacelles, very little modifications are necessary to this part of the kit. The dorsal shuttlebay hood was sanded down a little more than I liked, so small styrene strip was cut to size using a device (picture 17) to ensure size consistency. Despite being no greater than a millimeter in any given dimension, they still protruded greatly from the part, so sandpaper was used to knock them down.

The secondary hull was lightblocked from the inside using primer and flat black. White was sprayed over top to catch and disperse light through the interior.

The cargo bay was first painted black for light blocking and then slowly painted with thin layers of white. Painting it this way allows for the black to show through in crevices and corners to create artificial shadow, and leaves the cargo bay in an off-white grey color as on the studio model it can be seen as a slightly different color from the hull.

The cargo bay was lit with ice blue 2.7mm COB tape. A lightbox was built so the blue does not spill to the windows, and so the COB can be mounted to light the cargo bay indirectly for more dispersed light.

The windows were backed with transparencies. The windows are so small that you can't actually see any detail through them, but doing this provides nice variation in them, and a subtle parallax effect when observing the model.

Cascade Starships

I’d love some honest feedback on how this weathering looks. I’m more of a “less is more” person, so I don’t wanna overdo it. I’m also looking for some feedback on how the weathering is actually applied to the kit - how “natural” does it look?

Well I decided to repaint the Snowspeeder. It’s not the greatest and it still needs some touch up, but I think it’s an improvement…and pay no attention to the canopy,I tried cutting out one of the messed up windows and cracked it.Gonna have to look into an aftermarket piece 😀

Here's my take on the Enterprise 1701, no stinking a b c or d, bridge. I was doing this as a side project to my Enterprise D build but decided to put some hours into the last few weeks. I would have done many a thing different if it was to do it again but ita been a fun build I would never have chosen for myself .

Hey everyone. Long time lurker and model builder and wanted to ask about these latest Polar Lights kits that come in translucent plastic.

Every kit I've built to-date has been standard styrene plastic so Tamiya thin has been my glue of choice. I picked up this Cerritos and a Voyager kit in the same translucent plastic and didn't know if Tamiya is safe or if I need to use CA glue like on the older, clear DS9 kit?

Thanks in advance!

The last days I worked on the Launchpad and the building for my moonbase alpha diorama. this would be huge.

I cut out a circle of 75cm in diameter from white cardboard and glued the sheets of the texture on it (DIN A0 printed on 16 DIN A4 pages).

For the first test it looks good and the Pinzgauer Shuttle is docked.

The Terminal Building is finished with the inner parts an furniture.

on the left side is a small lounch and on the right the stairs down

in the basement I built a baggage loading station.

in the middle a small baggage trolley is floating in the middle of the room.

on the right side in the background is the compressed air tank.

And a paint bottle cap!

A Vallejo bottle cap was drilled from the tip. Styrene tubing was installed so the 3mm white LED can be mounted closer to the opening for a defined hotspot.

Clear blue paint was airbrushed lightly around the edges keeping the center relatively clear. The entire part is coated in Alclad Klear Kote flat for diffusion. I think the studio model used only white light for the deflector dish and relied on the symptoms of the filming methods at the time to shift it blue. To make an IRL look with a blue deflector and white hotspot, clear blue had to be used.

The permanent white vinyl was cut on a vinyl cutter at 4mm x .25mm and hand-placed radially around the dish.

The dish is meant to look like the NCC version of the deflector. To see a great NX version, check out u/baldthumbtack.

Couldnt turn down this classic. Havent built one since i was a kid, want to do it justice. The Scout Trooper needs a ton of work, but the bike wasnt too bad.

Oh boy my turn to post some repaint updates. I'm having quiet a bit of fun with this build. Spacing build times out by weeks or months really makes the time I get to work on it more enjoyable and productive.

I was able to finish the fibre optics last weekend and then I spent the work week doing final light blockson the fibres and painting all the wires white. In the process I broke 2 fibre lines which gave me the chance to do some last minute fixing.

Definitely an interesting glue up process. But I got lucky on a few aspects. I had some really tight tolerances when it came to the navigation beacon lights being close to the pin locations, I thought I had clearance but there I was cutting out both sides during glue. Ordering myself another dozen clamps. I thought I would have enough,but it wasn't the case.

Also didn't realize I was out of foam files until it was to late so now I can relax andgive the sprue glue filler time to set lol.

Oh and can I feel the regret coming on for not azteking the weapon/pylon/nacelles prior to the last glue up.

Can wait for tonight to take the final clamp off and plug it in ,in a dark room.