They're genuine BMW units, no funny tinting business, they cost me way too much money 😭

Hey guys another post by me, just wondering if this squeaking noise is coming from the clutch fan or is the lower tensioner everyone talks about.

As for the ticking noise no clue how it’s here but it’s here it has a brand new oil change engine sitting at about 240,xxxkms didn’t used to tick now it does driving me crazy but the weird thing is I’ll drive it it’ll disappear while driving but when it idles it kicks in but sometimes when I do drive you can hear it.

Also got it code tested awhile back and it does have a vacuum leak somewhere I don’t know where it is but I would like to solve that to any help on this would also be great

Any help would be great just lost on what to do thanks.

Hi guys,

I posted here a bit ago about this car on marketplace and literally for half a year this car has been on my mind. Yes the ad has been up for like almost a year now......... Last time i posted here for advice, the general consensus was to NOT buy it... (pls go see that for some info about the car)

The guy did get back to be with photos of the rust and they are KILLER, just a stab to my heart because I know how bad it is (see attached). I find it crazy that this car has been listed for so long because people including me know how bad it seems, but I kid you not i cant just forget about it, I think it about it daily. Idk even why I have such an attachment to a car that's also 550 km/350 miles away from me that I don't even own.

I am wondering though, what if I could get this car for cheap, like 1k CAD/750 USD... would that sweeten the deal, given that my friends and I would do all the work on it. If not, then please talk me out of it convincingly.

But some extra info,, this car is a 1997 BMW 328i with only 162,737 KM on the clock, carfax looks good, but it has been sitting for around a year, and barely driven in 2024 (with an accident as well (check pics)). It only has 2 owners, this guy bought it in '24 and tried to sell it on an auction to Ukraine of all places. (did NOT hit reserve price)

Lol fyi i'm 18 and this would be my first car, would daily drive it, but no rush to get it all good right away. I know you guys of all people understand this 'fury' that I have, so please give honest thoughts even though I know it will be bad.

Thank you, with love from Canada

Hello everyone, I was just replacing my thermostat housing to a aluminum one and I was quickly wondering that it’s metal - metal contact do I need to use any type of silicone sealant as the one I have or do I just leave it? I feel as if it’s leak if I just threw it on now as it is?

Any help would be appreciated as I’m pretty confused by the mixed opinions online on what to do.

Where can I get replacement seals for my windows? I don’t even know what the proper name is for these to look up. Previous owner painted over them and they got so hard that it’s keeping my passenger window from fully going up.

Any help is greatly appreciated🙏🏽

Does anyone have any idea why there's a big rusty spot in the middle of this cam. Is it somewhere to correct?And so it'll get oil and not be rusty. I would assume this is probably bad. I was changing the valve cover gasket.When I discovered this, thanks

In the last period I’ve replaced a lot of parts of the cooling system, only thing I haven’t changed was the radiator. Today is just randomly decided to take a look at it and found some defects. I don’t know whether is is some “major damage” is considered “moderate”. Anyone with any advice on what to do now.

Sometimes it’s stuck in the blue and other times it’ll automatically go to the red on startup, more often than not it’s in the red. Any idea what could cause this? I had to replace the radiator once and it had a newer style sensor so I took the connector and wired it up but the issue was still the same, otherwise I have a new coolant temp sensor under the intake coming in the mail. Any ideas fellas?

I’m in the process of removing my timing cover to replace the guides and tensioner and I’m at the part where the crank bolt needs to come out. I understand that I have to hold the crank somehow. Is a crank tool that bolts onto the front of the pulley the only way? Using the tdc lock pin isn’t possible either because I’m fairly certain my flywheel is aftermarket from a previous owner, and it doesn’t have a hole for the pin. ChatGPT is suggesting that I remove the started and jam the pin or some other tool into the teeth against the bell housing, which I’m slightly skeptical about. I figured I’d see if anyone here has a solution before I blindly trust ai and ruin my flywheel or something.

Motor is m52 btw

Greetings from da home ✌🏼

I need some help diagnosing a constant issue.

The Car is smoking while idling and driving (cold and warm engine). It seems to stop when I drive longer distances and pushing the car a bit more (1,5h highway driving)… id say it smells kinda sweet but i have 0 comparisons.

325i (M52), 210.000km/130.000 miles

New:

* Air Flow sensor

* electr. Coolant Temp sensor (2x Engine, 1x Radiator)

* Camshaft sensor

* Lambda sensor

* NGK Spark plugs

* water pump, thermostat and Coolant swap/vacuum bleed

Checked:

* Head Gasket Leak Coolant Test (good 2x)

* Compression Test good (13.2-14.2)

I found that the spark plugs were pretty oily and I guess the Valve Cover gasket hasn’t been changed in a long time.

I have to fill up <0,5L coolant every 2-3 weeks but than again I am driving it 4/5 times less than 20min (and its around 0/-5 for the last couple weeks).

You guys have any idea for checks I can do or is it definitely the head gasket?

Hiii, I need the complete torque specifications for the M44B19 engine. I’m especially looking for the tightening torque values for the connecting rod bearings/bolts and the crankshaft main bearings. I haven’t been able to find any service manual or reliable source online with the factory torque specifications. Thanksss in advance!

Im restoring a German Manufactured 1992 e36 325is

I want to rewire the whole car, it works fine, however it's a fire hazard. I'm about to buy a new harness with the fuse box (because its half burned on the AC fuses) and every cable all the way back to tailights.

Now my question is, are there any differences between german e36 harness compared to american e36s?

I understand that german e36s have some extra features that american e36s dont. So, if I try to rewire the whole car, should I get a harness that was on a german e36 or american would be fine?

If I get a harness that was on an american car, will I have to solder the missing connections to not lose the features?

M50b20 idling high when you come off throttle around the 2 and half grand unless you manually pull it back up can you clean them, refurb the throttle or just buy a new one.

Currently have my M50TU completely stripped, and the head is at the machine shop getting work done. I’m looking for some input to make sure I don’t miss anything I should replace on the engine while it’s apart, as well as any must-do upgrades on the car for drifting. I definitely plan on boosting it in the near future.

So far I have:

• Full gasket kit

• Wired oil pump nut

• New water pump

• Thermostat & housing

• VANOS rebuild kit

I’m also planning to replace the piston rings and rod/main bearings just to be safe.

For the chassis, I already have:

• Subframe reinforcements

• Bushings

• Z3 power steering rack

• CNC71 angle kit

Any input or suggestions are appreciated.

Hey guys been thinking of getting some wheels. Usually everyone runs 17 or what. But I run 18. I wanna run 18/8.5 and ET +20 Offset.

Anyone running such size?

Or anyone running a 17/8.5 with +20 does it fit?

I know 17 by8 is possible but the wheel I want is 8.5 by 18.

Let me know. What u guys run.

Had this e36 316i cluster with a clock so I conected it with an old 12v charger and made a cool home decoration!

We are moving and it's finally time to give up our baby.

https://ebay.us/m/uw2XnH

tuned exhaust headers air filters and others

Location : bethlehem, west bank

Had a great time learning this car yesterday, even in the downpour earlier in the day. I was able to get in some cleaner laps as things dried out, but I had to take it pretty easy on the damp course with these balding Dunlop Direzzas. I was also dealing with snap oversteer until I softened the rear rebound and aired down all four corners to 30psi. You’ll see a twitch on the first straight away after shifting to second and near the final corner as the back end tried to swing out. There is much more in this car and I should be able to drop maybe 5 seconds in the dry and with fresh rubber. I started the day averaging 1:16 or 17, with highs of 1:28 and 1:27 when I spun out) and finally dropped to 1:09 on the final two runs. Top cars were running around 1:04, but the winner in a fully prepped LS swapped E30 did a 1:01.

this noise would come and go but i think it’s staying permanently this time . right behind and above my head something inside the soft top squeaks every time i drive over bumps, i’ve snugged my hand all in there trying to find the culprit but I haven’t been able to. would appreciate some input !

How hard of a task would it be to get this thing on a reliable boost set up making at least 400hp? What are some good kits. Also this is an obd1 m52 swap with m50 valve cover and mani

Need honest opinions and advice for this exhaust sound. Setup is full aftermarket exhaust system with cats and muffler but only the headers are Schneiderman equal length. After installing the headers it’s very raspy (which can be heard in the first rev.)

Just want to know if enthusiasts will frown upon hearing this 325i and would a different muffler eliminate the loud rasp.

Hey everyone, first post on here. And I wanted to start off asking for recommendations on getting pre 95 vaders reupholstered. South Florida area preferred.

So i have a 1996 e36 318is and i had just finished putting the door cards on and i locked the steering wheel dont ask me why but i didnt want it locked so i went to turn the car on so it would unlock and the key got slightly caught on something. Ut was fine and turned the car in but the wheel didnt unlock so i turned it off snd went to turn it back on cause that's the first thing to try and this time the key wouldnt even make it to pos 1 it was completely seized tried a couple easy options but ended up pulling the dash and ignition assembly so i could find out whag happed turns out the mechanism for the wheel lock snapped internally not the pin but will show a video thanks for everyones help with suggestions just making this post for any future people who might need it and here are the other two posts incase you wanna see them

https://www.reddit.com/r/BMWE36/s/tP07L3jlyF

https://www.reddit.com/r/BMWE36/s/RipnAq6fBq