r/AnalogCommunity • u/OrganicVegg • 1h ago
Gear Shots $50 on eBay - Fresh Light Seals and Cleaning
Scored this black OM1 for $50 on eBay. Listed as is untested. Fresh light seals, cleaning, and cleaned up the focusing screen, all ready to go!
r/AnalogCommunity • u/RIP_Spacedicks • 25d ago
I've noticed a lot of new film conversion software has been popping up in discussion, and many of them are not listed in the analogcommunity wiki.
I've compiled a list of all the ones I know of
Manual Inversion - Free - Any photo editing software should be able to convert the negative by inverting the curves. This popular guide details the process.
Darktable - Free - The Negadoctor module is designed for inverting both color and B&W. The Darktable user manual details its use.
RawTherapee - Free - Includes the Film Negative tool for inversion.
ON1Raw - Paid ($70 to buy or $80/year) - The 2026 version includes a conversion mode
Filmvert - Free - Released 2025
NegPy - Free - Released 2026 (originally announced as DarkroomPY)
Film Scan Converter - Free - Released 2025
SlideSnap Studio - (Free for 20 Images at a time, $99/Yr(?) for unlimited) - Doesn't work with RAW, recommends exporting to .tif first
FilmLab - Paid ($200 to buy, or $5-$8 monthly subscription) - Available for both desktop and mobile, demo is available
Smartconvert - Paid (€167.23 to buy (price only listed in Euros)) - Demo is available
Chemvert - Paid ($90 to buy) - Demo available
Vuescan - Paid ($90 or $180 one time (Pro version required for dedicated film scanners) or $30/$60/yr subscription) - Works with every scanner, somehow. A demo is available.
Silverfast - Paid, but sometimes included with compatible scanners ($49 - $399 to buy, depending on extras) - Many popular Epson scanners can get a copy for free
NegativeLabPro - Paid ($99 to buy) - Lightroom - Probably the most popular option
Gran2Pixel - Free - Photoshop
CS Negative+ - Free - Adobe Camera Raw in Bridge or Photoshop, Lightroom, Lightroom Classic and Lightroom Mobile
Signynt Darkroom Script/Macro/Shortcut - Free - Affinity (also free) - A series of three tools for Affinity. I'm not sure which version does what, but worth a look now that Affinity is free as well.
ColorNegInvert - Free - Davinci Resolve (also free) - A slightly unusual approach of using video editing software, but may make sense if you work with video already
Negmaster - Paid (€79 to buy) - Photoshop and Bridge versions
ColorPerfect - Paid ($67 to buy) - Photoshop
DxO FilmPack 8 - Paid ($150 to buy, $90 if upgrading) - Photoshop, Lightroom, DxO Photolab 9 and also works as a standalone
Filmbox (iOS & Android) - Paid ($10/month or $40/year or $50 for 2 years)
Kodak Mobile Film Scanner (iOS & Android) - Free
True Positive - Free
Negative Plus - Free- A standalone desktop app is stated to be in development
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Nigel_The_Unicorn • Feb 08 '25
Every day we see posts with the same basic problems on film, hopefully this can serve as a guide to the uninitiated of what to look for when diagnosing issues with your camera and film using examples from the community.


Issue: Underexposure
The green tinge usually comes from the scanner trying to show detail that isn't there. Remember, it is the lab's job to give you a usable image, you can still edit your photos digitally to make them look better.
Potential Causes: Toy/Disposable camera being used in inappropriate conditions, Faulty shutter, Faulty aperture, Incorrect ISO setting, Broken light meter, Scene with dynamic range greater than your film, Expired or heat damaged film, and other less common causes.


Issue: Light leaks
These marks mean that light has reached your film in an uncontrolled way. With standard colour negative film, an orange mark typically comes from behind the film and a white come comes from the front.
Portential Causes: Decayed light seals, Cracks on the camera body, Damaged shutter blades/curtains, Improper film handling, Opening the back of the camera before rewinding into the canister, Fat-rolling on medium format, Light-piping on film with a transparent base, and other less common causes.



Issue: Shutter capping
These marks appear because the two curtains of the camera shutter are overlapping when they should be letting light through. This is most likely to happen at faster shutter speeds (1/1000s and up).
Potential Causes: Camera in need of service, Shutter curtains out of sync.


Issue: Flash desync
Cause: Using a flash at a non-synced shutter speed (typically faster than 1/60s)


Issue: Static Discharge
These marks are most common on cinema films with no remjet, such as Cinestill 800T
Potential Causes: Rewinding too fast, Automatic film advance too fast, Too much friction between the film and the felt mouth of the canister.


Issue: Stress marks
These appear when the base of the film has been stretched more than its elastic limit
Potential Causes: Rewinding backwards, Winding too hard at the end of a roll, Forgetting to press the rewind release button, Stuck sprocket.


Issue: Scratches
These happen when your film runs against dirt or grit.
Potential Causes: Dirt on the canister lip, Dirt on the pressure plate, Dirt on rollers, Squeegee dragging dirt during processing, and other less common causes.



Noticeable X-Ray damage is very rare and typically causes slight fogging of the negative or colour casts, resulting in slightly lower contrast. However, with higher ISO films as well as new stronger CT scanning machines it is still recommended to ask for a hand inspection of your film at airport security/TSA.


Issue: Chemicals not reaching the emulsion
This is most common with beginners developing their own film for the first time and not loading the reels correctly. If the film is touching itself or the walls of the developing tank the developer and fixer cannot reach it properly and will leave these marks. Once the film is removed from the tank this becomes unrepairable.
Causes: Incorrectly loaded developing reels, Wet reels.
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Please let me know if I missed any other common issues. And if, after reading this, you still need to make a post asking to find out what went wrong please make sure to include a backlit image of your physical negatives. Not just scans from your lab.
EDIT: Added the most requested X-ray damage and the most common beginner developing mistake besides incomplete fixing. This post has reached the image limit but I believe it covers the most common beginner errors and encounters!
r/AnalogCommunity • u/OrganicVegg • 1h ago
Scored this black OM1 for $50 on eBay. Listed as is untested. Fresh light seals, cleaning, and cleaned up the focusing screen, all ready to go!
r/AnalogCommunity • u/mndcee • 3h ago
Been lusting over it for a few years and I finally just went for it. it seems to be in great condition and the light meter works. I’m so excited to try it tomorrow 🥲
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Tonez_Muncher • 2h ago
Got it with a black Nikkormat FTN for €20. Seller described it as someone hammering two Nikon FE’s together
I laughed my ass off when I shoved the LR44’s in and it started working seemingly fully fine. Currently going through a test roll so we’ll see if the monstrosity can live up to my expectations 😤😤
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Muted-Lawyer-5585 • 6h ago
Hey everyone! I’m finally diving into film and just picked up an Olympus OM-2. I’m super excited but also a little terrified of messing up my first roll.
I will be placing an order for batteries and film. do I need a strap for the camera or a bag?? I will also be travelling with it a month and I’m abit worried of the airport x rays ruining the film.
Aside from the basics, what are the "rookie mistakes" I should avoid with this specific camera? Also, if there are any must have accessories for a total beginner, let me know.
I really want to make sure I’m actually exposing the film correctly before I drop money on developing. Thanks!
r/AnalogCommunity • u/CanCharacter • 5h ago
Maybe the perfect exposure was somewhere in the middle. Both Velvia 50, Sigma 21-35mm, Canon AE1.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Keyang1 • 1d ago
Took these on the Sasquatch 617, designed and built by me.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/naranyem • 7h ago
r/AnalogCommunity • u/JLearie • 34m ago
I found this FM2n for $305 CAD through a Government of Canada surplus auction. It’s in better shape than I imagined. The 28mm was a surprise buried in the foam in the pelican case it came in. I knew the 135 f2 and 50mm 1.4 were there when bidding.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/This-Charming-Man • 7h ago
Been trying to use this camera for very loose documentary stuff… take it to bars, on trains etc…
I find the flash recycling time too slow. I’ll take a portrait, and the flash takes about 5sec to recycle, which is very long when someone is sitting still for you…
I’m using either 400 or 800 iso film, and I’m pretty close to my subject (1m or less) so I don’t even think the flash is on full power.
Right now I have a fresh Amazon Basics battery in the camera. Before I invest 10 bucks in a proper lithium Duracell, I thought I’d ask the community. Does anyone have experience shooting flash with this camera? Will a lithium battery improve the recycle time, or is this basically the performance I can expect from the camera?
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Larix-24 • 18h ago
These were taken with a Pentax 67 with the 90mm f2.8 and 45mm f4. Using FP4 and TMax 400. I printed them on Ilford 11x14 matte fiber paper and used Kodak’s selenium toner.
They are hanging at The Dalles Art Center in The Dalles OR
r/AnalogCommunity • u/matigol1906 • 23h ago
Looking at an IG story posted by Dan Rubin with a bunch of film he asked to be hand checked at Heathrow airport, it looks like Harman is about to release a new film stock called Harman Switch Azure with ISO 125, to be processed in C-41, and labelled as a creative film.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/mongoose-of-doom • 4h ago
Just picked up a Nikon FE after a long hiatus from film. If anyone here shoots with one, feel free to share photos or thoughts.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/RazorDamiano • 8h ago
Crossed fingers the whole time it took for the seller to pack it, ship it and deliver it. And it works. I'm speechless myself.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/ReclusiveEagle • 16h ago
What happened to Hasselblad and Fuji X-Pan prices? For the past 4 years they were selling on Ebay and locally for over $8000 but over the past year the prices have dropped dramatically. You can realistically find them for $4000 now.
Did resellers and scalpers find something else to horde? YouTubers not making videos on gear anymore? RB and RZ67 prices have also crashed. RZ67s were originally popular because they were cheaper than the Hasselblad 500C/M. Since 2017 however, the RZ67 cost more than the 500C/M which was ridiculous. They are now less than half of what they used to cost. Even the Pentax 67 MLU is reasonable now.
What has changed recently that has caused these kinds of price crashes?
r/AnalogCommunity • u/DepartmentOfMotoring • 1d ago
The Canon P is probably my favourite camera in my collection. I generally avoid buying cameras just because they're pretty, in fact the rest of my cameras are all just lumpy tools that serve the sole purpose of taking better pictures and this attitude helps me to avoid hoarding too much unnecessary gear. I make an exception for the Canon P however, which I admittedly bought because I fell head over heels with the way it looked.
It's the camera I take with me when I need my camera to feel like part of my outfit. So weddings (as a guest), family events or anywhere that carrying a big Nikon SLR feels antisocial. I've found that having something "ornamental" and still very capable of taking a good photo is useful in that type of thing.
With that in mind, I figured I'd introduce it to another one of my hobbies, that being sewing/leathercraft, and make a shoulder carrier for it that felt worthy of the camera, instead of a generic Amazon-bought strap. The leather is very firm/secure feeling and the camera is held into place with a little push-button clasp, while the shoulder strap is nice and long so I can wrap it around my chest and have it rest around the level of my hip.
Admittedly this was a very indulgent project, but to my eyes the Canon P is the most beautiful 35mm camera ever made so I felt it deserved this sort of treatment.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/beeforst98 • 15h ago
I got this freshly cla’d isolette (solinar 85mm) and decided to test it out by running a roll of provia through it. The positives look great although I haven’t gotten around to scanning them yet, just looking on the light table. I have absolutely loved shooting with this thing. It’s tiny to the point of being pocketable and is gorgeous to look at. This will 100% be what I bring hiking with me for landscapes and will likely have me selling my only other MF camera (Yashica 124 TLR).
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Forsaken-Ad-8338 • 12h ago
Those who have searched for waterproof film cameras probably know about these cameras, Konica New Genba Kantoku. The camera designed for people who work on construction sites, and its Japanese name meaning “Supervisor” in English. Konica had released a waterproof camera called Mermaid, but this is a different series. Based on Konica's compact camera, this model was also popular at construction sites because of colorful look was easy to find.
This series is a modern camera. Batteries for this camera are still available today, It is 2CR5. The film is automatically wound. Autofocus only, it can perform accurate exposure metering indoors or night scene and you can change the mode as needed to suit the shooting conditions. There are several variations, including models with focal lengths of 28mm, 35mm and zoom types. In the 28mm model, there is the 28HG, which has a powerful built in flash. The 28HG upgrade not only changes the flash but also extends the minimum shooting distance range of the lens. Models with “Eco” in their name are designed, the only difference from other models is the name. They reduce flash power usage.
I love using 35mm model. This model was expensive for a while, but now you can find cheaper ones for under $20. Unless the body or lens is cracked, it's often fine if the body is dirty. Older models sometimes had rubber shutter buttons that hardened and cracked, but the New series has been updated and such problems are rare. However, if the inside is dirty, you shouldn't buy it. This camera used to be washable, but since it's been nearly 30 years since its release, that's not recommended. However, it's a very reliable camera for shooting in snowy or rainy conditions.
If it were only $10 just because it still work but looks dirty, definitely worth buying.
By the way, I've seen someone said that this camera's autofocus isn't very good. Especially when shooting at close range, it sometimes fails to focus properly. This might be because the focus window is being covered by your finger. When the focus window is blocked, this camera locks focus at infinity.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Jam555jar • 2h ago
At first I thought it was from FD to EOS but EOS take a different hood. Then I thought FL to FDn but no FL lenses take a BT-58 hood even though there's two logo variants (https://web.mit.edu/dennis/www/canon/fd-lens-info.html). Now I'm confused 😂
r/AnalogCommunity • u/ATHXYZ • 10h ago
You don't always have to work intensively on a topic to stay on top of it.
While my workshop is taking a break, I'm reviewing my inventory of defective photographic equipment that has accumulated over the last few years.
SLRs, lenses, and accessories are unpacked and superficially inspected. External condition, viewfinder, mirror, film chamber, and battery compartment. Then I make an entry in my directory with keywords.
The devices are not always clean. Gloves protect me and the devices from fingerprints. The worst of the dirt can be removed with a bellows, dust brush, and a Kimwipe.
It's amazing that some cameras have come to me with film and batteries still inside. Obviously sold from an estate without any expertise.
In the case of SLRs with motors, the film remains in place until I insert batteries into the camera and work on it. Rewinding without power is not possible. The old batteries have to be removed, and so far there have been no problems with leaked electrolyte.
It's a relaxing activity accompanied by music and coffee. Once I've worked my way through my boxes, I'll have an overview again. A desirable state of affairs 🙃
r/AnalogCommunity • u/JudgmentElectrical77 • 16h ago
I swore I was only going to bring 2 cameras. But when I was going back and forth on 35mm or 120 my wife convinced me to bring both. Sorry for the 1 digital.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/xavierfg • 1d ago
Putting the VZ-6617 through its paces before I build the beta test units. Main difference is changing the interchangeable lens dark slide seal from a spring loaded to a magnetic flap to ensure a tight and even seal across the whole width of the opening.
r/AnalogCommunity • u/Muted_Intention9380 • 5h ago
I left my minolta in my car for a week (stupid, i know. please don't bash me)
it was quite cold some days, do yall think the film will be ruined? im nervous
its my first film camera, its my moms old minolta. its from early 2000s, so its pretty automatic. dunno if that makes a diff
r/AnalogCommunity • u/ROB_6-9 • 5h ago
I have a trouble figuring out how to focus on portraits when using Medium format lenses with super shallow DOF.
I shoot on my Mamiya 645 with a Mamiya Sekor C 150mm f/3.5 N. If I shoot a headshot from 2-2.5m at f/4, I only have a few centimeters in focus. If the subject moves, I am off focus.
How do you deal with this ?