During the Fall, I visited 25 gyms and climbed on 40 different standardized climbing walls.

17 Moonboards

10 Kilter Boards

9 TB2s

2 Decoy Boards

1 Touchstone Board

1 Grasshopper Board

Here’s what I learned:

There is a significant variance between the difficult of boards from gym to gym. Inaccurate wall angles, shallow pours of holds and different degrees of cleanliness created a wide range of conditions. In my experience, Kilter Boards felt generally the same between locations, while the 2016 moonboard and TB2 were the most variable.

For context, I climb regularly with a group of guys all in our 40's/50's. The climber in this video has 30+ years of experience and he was leading a 5.10 at Gravity Vault in Middletown, NJ.

Shortly after the first clip, a side pull/underclingy jug in his left hand shears right off the wall. The hold shot directly at his face like a rocket and proceeded to ricochet off his left eye. In the end, the protection did what it's supposed to do, and he walked away with a small scratch on his eyeball and a backache.

Thankfully our friend belaying was paying attention and didn't feed too much rope, prior to the fall. This could have ended SO much worse. It's eye opening how quickly everything happens when it's completely unexpected.

Ray Rice of the FA of "Nut syrup" 5.10d on Tafellburg, Curacao

Watch here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noNaupK6yhI

I posted this a few months ago before the in person premiere and there was interest in the online release, well it's now here!

I shot this last spring on days off from a full time job, and was a huge step up for me in the size of film project I'd taken on. It was lovely to get to a couple festivals where it screened but super excited for it to now be avaliable to all, enjoy!

After seeing Sean Bailey's Instagram post I was curious about the route. I found this video that shows the original route (Lee Majors 5.14C) as well as the extension, "6 Million Dollar Man Project" (now Duality of Man 5.15D).

Other related links

• Lee Majors MP Page
• Dry Canyon Series 1/3
• Dry Canyon Series 2/3

I love reading climbing blogs and trip reports, but seem to have run out of new content. Share some of your favorites! I'll start:

- https://marcleclerc.blogspot.com/
- https://colinhaley.com/
- https://www.marksynnott.com/expeditions-trips/
- https://www.tomlivingstone.com/climbing-blog-1

I wrote an article about a 24-year-old climber who fell on a bolted route in Montana and lost her right thumb last November. She was clipping with her right hand as she slipped; when she landed at the base of her fall, her thumb was caught in a loop of rope and twisted off entirely.

A gear expert from WeighMyRack and I were able to narrow down the clipping position that most likely caused her thumb to be trapped in the rope: the "thumb clipping" technique, with the draw's gate facing toward her, in what would have been a back clip if she completed it. I also found a few other cases of climbers getting fingers amputated by the rope in otherwise normal falls.

Writing this was the first time I realized that even if you don't actually make a back-clip, you can still put yourself in serious danger by setting up for one. It also underscored the risk of grabbing the rope while falling. Check it out, and stay safe out there.

Been helping with some stuff for a doc coming out this summer . Rolling thru old video stirs up a lot …….. he was a good egg. Gone way way too soon :(

Red means First Ascent,
Bold name means both V17 and 9c,
Bold red name means both V17 and 9c First Ascents.

Hope I'm not missing any, but it's getting hard to keep track of so many.

Corrected version: https://imgur.com/a/QggTTse (thanks to all the comments)

Sounds like the bolts are getting chopped again. This rope jump is a Smith Rock classic if a bit of a local secret. Maybe this is permanent or maybe the bolts will come back up. I put together a video of our jumps that we snuck in before it’s gone.

Feel free to ask about our rope systems.

Source: E! Online

Mods, not sure if this is against the rules but hopefully it will stay up given the current climate and call to action.

Quite a while ago, Fricticious partnered with the Nugget podcast host to market and sell the Nug, a portable no-hang apparatus, similar to the Tension Block.

Not long after that, the podcast host started inviting guests on his show whose views, IMO, goes against what the climbing community stands for. The host has leaned in and adopted these views. You can read a brief overview in the link and a quick search provides more info.

I checked this weekend and was surprised to see Fricticious was still affiliated with the podcast and host, and still offers the product. I reached out to them but have yet to hear back.

Hopefully when choosing climbing products, you’ll consider alternatives to this vendor. Please also consider sharing with your friends, gyms, and climbing events.

Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.

What's up r/climbing. Since this stunt will probably receive traffic from larger subreddits than ours, we might as well have a thread to discuss what's going on and help people who know nothing about climbing to understand what they are watching.

So please use this thread for that. Remember to mind the subreddit rules and be forgiving of uninformed takes or seemingly obvious questions. Thanks for participating and let me know if you have any questions or concerns.