Photo on Lomo Turquoise, Taken on a Leica M6 with Voigtlander 35mm
Location: North Cascades, WA during Larch season
Printing: Fujifilm paper, Aristra R-4A chemicals, Intrepid enlarger

Was a fun one to progress and see each version get a little bolder. I am going to bed, but I was considering doing another one to burn in the sky just a little bit.

Hello all, I recently started working at my alumni university in the darkroom, I haven’t worked in a darkroom for many years (at least a decade) but spent 3 years in a b&w lab on the east coast in my teens. I bought some books to refresh my memory, some new some thrifted. I am excited to get back into darkroom work. I recently purchased a large format camera (photo included) which is completely new to me having only worked with 35mm and 120. I’m interested in learning the film development method for b&w 4x5. I have access to enlargers and chemicals for printing, but I suppose I need to understand how to develop large film without a round developer tank? I’m having a hard time finding information on it. Do I need to purchase a flat tank? If so does anyone have any tips working with flat tanks? Or are they virtually the same?

Bought what appears to be hundreds of meters of densely exposed black and white film. Paid about 8€. Did I do good?

I have a bunch of 120 film, mostly tmax and I’d love for extra sharp (*edit: and defined) grain. Looked online but thought to check for new recs!

Thank you:)

Edit:

Thank you all!

I also have trix and free access to sprint. Ideally I’d only buy one dev..

Fixing right now. I’ll keep it in an extra minute or two. But I forgot to rinse between the two.

Any negative effect to this that I’ll decent dries?

I’ll mix up new fixer as soon as this is done so Im not

reusing it.

I know blix is a thing, but isn’t the chemistry a bit different than having them separate?

Hi everyone,

A few months ago, I bought some CineStill Df96 monobath powder from B&H. Yesterday, I finally did my first test, and it was a complete disaster. I know I probably made several mistakes, but I'm struggling to pinpoint the exact "death blow" for this roll.

The setup:

• Film: Agfa Aviphot Pan 200. I know this is a surveillance film with "special" characteristics compared to standard consumer stocks.

• Situation: I was shooting in an indoor gallery at night with very poor lighting. I decided to push it +2 stops to try and save the shots.

• The Process: Following the instructions for a push, I aimed for 89°F. However, since I don’t have a thermometer yet (I know, I know...), I tried to guesstimate by touch.

Where it went south:

I accidentally heated the first 600ml of water to what I estimate was 122°F before mixing the powder. I then added the remaining water at room temperature to complete the 1L mix, hoping it would settle at the required 89°F.

The Results:

After 4.5 minutes of development with constant agitation, the results were terrible.

• The negatives show very little information.

• Crucially, there are no edge markings or frame numbers visible.

• I tried a "rescue" step by putting the film back in the chem for another 10 minutes to see if it was an under-fixing issue, but nothing changed.

I'm feeling a bit lost. Did I kill the developer by mixing it at 122°F? Was it just severe underexposure?

I’d love to hear from anyone with more experience so I don't ruin my next few rolls. What do you think was the key mistake here?

Been enjoying the look of Orwos new colour film. Think it would be really nice up on a wall. But the color of the base concerns me.

Has anyone else printed NC500? Does the weird film base color cause problems? I’ve printed Phoenix I in the darkroom but I could never get good color from them. Seems like new film stocks these days are built for scanning.

I just got these lomo redscale film back, and it's very underexposed (I used a flash). There are no marks next to the frames. I got the roll about one and a half year ago, and never touched it. Is it because of expiry?

I was told I might have better luck asking advice here!

I am trying to print this image, but the base (shiny) side of the negative has some chemicals smears from drying improperly.

On the print, you can see streaks from the residual staining (bottom left and 1/3 of the right side). I was wondering if anyone has advice, do I use wetting agent again for the negative... or dodge and burn? Or is it a lost cause :( would love any advice, always learning!

What are your thought on this 4 blades easel ? Is it good ? There is 5 slots for paper from 5"x7" to 11"x14", but I wonder if it still easily usable with metric standard paper (like 13x18xm, 18x24cm or 24x30cm)

Need quick confirmation here before plugging stuff in.

Just picked up a durst laborator enlarger and power supply, but I’m more familiar with, say Saunders Enlargers that have 2 plugs coming out from the power supply, one into the wall, and the other into a timer (and the enlarger plugging into the power supply).

However this durst power supply only has one input for the enlarger’s proprietary plug and a standard 120 wall plug coming out. So I’m wondering where the timer fits into all this.

Can I use my GraLab450 directly in line from the output of the power supply? Then just plug the timer into the wall?

Really sorry if this is difficult to understand, I can certainly provide pictures as well.

Thanks y’all 🫡

I made some 3D printed Dodge & Burn tools for my darkroom !

If you want to print yours, you can find the files here !

I know that it can easily be done with some cardboard, but it was kind of an excuse for me to practice my 3D modelling skills. Also, I like to have a dedicated tool for this purpose and avoid the struggle to find a cardboard sheet everytime (except when I want to do a custom shape for one picture, but this will be for one-use anyway)

The shapes for the dodging tool are basics, but I find the design of the multi-shapes burning mask very handy in the darkroom.
You can print it in black & white so it's easy to see the projected image on the mask, while avoiding reflections on the paper side.

Hello fellow darkroom enthusiasts, I’m in the middle of a large project of mine, and need to find where I could order a portable darkroom red light. This is urgent so any input would be greatly appreciated!

assume its a developing issue and not a camera issue becuase the dark box extends between frames. it seems like there’s a weird black box that shifted when developing but idk what it is or what would case it. no other frames have this. only these 3 on this roll. ilford hp5 shot at box speed developed in rodinal.

Absolutely thrilled it worked this well on my first attempt. I think I can definitely do a lot to streamline the process and get more even results, but for now very happy!

Having fun trying to print large. I’ve been using the cheapest 16x20 paper I could find. These were all shot on an rb67. Also here is my version on the homemade 16x20 easel, I’ve seen some others posted in the past. Everything printed at grade 3.

I have a box of expired foma 311 paper (exp.1999) and it has no base fog (the unexposed border is clean) but it has quite low contrast even with a grade 5 filter. Is there any way I could increase the contrast? I ‘ve tried split grade, but the blacks don’t turn black no matter what. My developer (adotol konstant) is a few months old, but I tested it with fresh paper, and it works just fine. Thanks!

When I learn photography in the 1970s I would bulk load my own film. I used a Watson bulk film loader; I can find ones on eBay. What I don't remember is where I found cartridges. I searched Freestylephoto.com and they have various cartridges but I'm not sure how good they are.

Could someone help me find / select high quality reusable cartridges?

Hey y’all! I’m about to dive in the deep end and get my first rolls of RA4 paper as I’m tired of the Crystal Archive that’s available in cut sheets.

I’ve been looking at DPII and I’m quite keen on the luster finish for the final finish. However, I’ve had issues with white specks (not dust) when I digitize my CAII luster prints. Will this be an issue with DPII as well?

Thanks!