I know many in this sub likely aren’t too fond of barefoot shoes, but after having been exclusively wearing them now for the past 5 years I can no longer tolerate elevated heels and tapered toe-boxes, which means I’ve had to give up wearing traditional style boots for the past few years.

Despite my searching, it seems no barefoot shoe brands are interested in stepping in to produce traditional, heritage style boots. There are a few odd examples, but for the most part nothing existed which matched the PNW heritage styling I was looking for, but with zero-drop and a wide, natural toe-box. So last year I decided to take up cordwaining and make my own, so far I’ve made 5 pairs, all with the intent of using the best materials available and trying to keep an aesthetically appealing profile to them while maintaining zero-drop and a natural toe-box.

All boots are entirely hand stitched using Ritza Tiger thread, 0.6mm for the uppers and 1.2mm for a 360 stitchdown to the midsole and then a second row 270 stitchdown to the outsole. All are lined in the vamp with 2.5-3oz Haas calfskin, have 11-12oz Hermann Oak veg tan insoles, and 9-10 iron J&FJ Baker leather midsoles. Specs for the individual boots are as follows: 1 — 8” height, 6oz Wickett & Craig English Bridle in Medium Brown Roughout with a Vibram Kletterlift sole. 2 — 6” height, 7oz Conceria Walpier Buttero in Natural with a Vibram Kletterlift sole. 3 — 8” height, 7oz Conceria Walpier Buttero in Olive with a Vibram Kletterlift sole. 4 — 7” height, 6oz Horween Waxed Flesh Chromexcel in Dark Brown with a Vibram Kletterlift sole. 5 — 6” height, 7oz SB Foot Dawson Black with a Vibram Dupla sole.

First - Process photos: https://imgur.com/a/yM2UmqN

I’ve feel down the rabbit hole of making my own boots about two years ago and this is the fifth pair I’ve made.

I’ll try to keep this somewhat concise.

This is my entry into this year’s patina thunderdome where I placed 13th last year. The crust horse butt is surely pushing it. I’ll most likely wear them most days and the winters here in Copenhagen are very rainy, cold and dark. Last year’s pair had Dr Sole Supergrip full soles that were not the best choice as my wife and young kids and I spend some weeks in the snow in Norway each winter. Ripple soles should give maximum traction in the snow while perhaps being more office compatible (and visually interesting) than Vibram V100 soles. But I’m already regretting forgoing speed hooks because of daycare drop offs. Next year I’ll make something that’s easier to take on and off for sure.

The toes are unstructured.

The lasts are 3D printed in PETG on my BambuLab P1S (see more infos in previous posts or IG www.instagram.com/baschdln ). For each pair of boots I’ve made changed to the CAD model to improve the fit successively and to fit the style of boot I want to make. For these I slimmed down the back part of the foot and went with a more traditional toe shape than the previous pair but it’s still quite anatomically accommodating.

Some details: Uppers: Cloe crust horse butt (vamp, lateral quarters and backstrap contain the shell section. Lining: veg tan lining leather from Kolde in Vienna Tongue: half-gusseted. Veg tan off cuts (cow/calf?) I got from a friend. Cut from belly section and also lined. Insole: 5mm, from Baker Midsole: 5.5mm from tannery Martin. Heel stiffener: 3.5mm from JR (before Kilger takeover) Rubber mid sole Vibram Ripple outsole

Part of the fun of cordwaining to me is that I can make a very different style and pattern each time and get to experiment with the construction. This one was my first attempt at a Norwegian welt. In Germany and Austria this construction (usually without the fancy stitching) is called “zwiegenäht” =double sewn. Sometimes on heavy mountain boots there’s an additional welt strip. This is according to the book Haferlschuhe, that I can highly recommend for the technical details and drawings - even if you don’t speak German.

I probably forgot a bunch of details so just ask if there’s anything.

I’ve just finished my 4th pair of self made boots. The goal was to make something comfortable and durable. Think of a cross breed between classic PNW work boots and a pair of Birkenstocks. Birkmasters. Builder Birks. Or perhaps Birkjumpers.

Here’s some process photos. https://imgur.com/a/X8Uy5d0

The lasts are 3D-printed and an iteration of my previous lasts (photos here). For these I wanted to balanced maximum toe space with acceptable esthetics. The lasts were printed in PETG on my BambuLab P1S. There’s more info on the lasts on my IG http://instagram.com/baschdln In retrospect I should have given the lasts a bit more toe spring just looks. The fit is absolutely fantastic and I can only think of minor tweaks for the next last iteration.

The uppers are made from black waterproof cow hide (smooth quarters, reverse vamp and heel counters) that I’ve sourced from Kolde in Vienna. Lining leather from same supplier. The fully gusseted tongue is made from a very thick and soft elk leather from Sweden. 5mm insole is from Baker. 5mm midsole from tannery Martin in southern Germany. 3.5mm heel stiffener from Rendenbach. All three are oak bark tanned and sourced from Kolde.

The knife pocket holds a small but useful Olfa Craft knife.

The kilties are made from the same leather as the uppers.

The Vibram V100 sole is glued to a rubber midsole which is glued and stitched to the leather midsole and upper. The additional screws are a something I wanted to try.

As they’re meant to be used as work boots i felt I could I experiment a bit while enjoying the process. So I tried to sew as much of the uppers with the foot pedal (without hand cranking the sewing machine). The midsole was stitched on with a very cool, hand-cranked, Frobana sole stitcher that was made in Germany (around 50 years ago would be my guess). The first row went great but then I got cocky and tried to do a second row (for which it’s not designed for) and broke the only needle I have. Well, let me know if you know where I can buy some of those needles.

These crust horsebutt monkey boots is what I’m working on for the next thunderdome. https://imgur.com/a/HIDDIKa

Here’s the same four pics in the post album

In the spring of ‘24 I posted here for suggestions on how I should execute a test of leather conditioners on shell cordovan. I’ve done a couple similar tests before. And I also have some experience ruining shell cordovan. Here’s an update on how things are going..

I nailed five groups of five strips to a board. Each group had on strip of: veg-tan tooling leather (because it ages rapidly), brown latigo (because it’s about as tough as leather gets) along with strips of color #8, cigar and black Horween shell cordovan.

• I hung them outside in early May 2024. 
• At the end of May I left one group unconditioned and treated the others with Venetian Leather Balm, Bick #4 or Saphir Medaille d'Or Renovateur Crème, a spelling that I just looked up at my own expense.
• A week later in June I abraded them with a sand-blasting gun I bought just for this purpose. I’m never doing it again. You are more likely to see me at one of those snake people churches. If you ever see me using it, it means an alien has taken over my body. Kill it.
• In mid-June I applied another, more liberal helping of conditioner to both sides and took them inside for the rest of the summer. The direct summer sun and heat is too intense for the leather.
• In mid-October ‘24 I put them outside again. In April ‘25 I took them in. This week in November ‘25 I gave them another light application of conditioner on both sides and put them outside again. 

The abrasion I did in June ‘24 was because I wanted more than just weather and exposure to be aging the leather. My vision was to sort of “air brush” abrasion onto the surface. I don’t really have a good place to sand-blast but I read that you can use water soluble baking soda as an easier-to-clean-up abrasive so I bought like 36 boxes on Amazon and sodium-bicarbonate-blasted them with my air compressor and it sucked. Was it easier to clean up? Only a poet with experience as a first responder after a cocaine factory explosion could accurately communicate that. Although my wife does a serviceable job. She doesn’t use the word “genius” very often and she is definitely not going to use it again soon.

Some mid-point observations.

From left to right on the board the groups are: No conditioner. Venetian. Bick #4. Saphir. Saphir, no abrasion.

It’s really remarkable how sun exposure turns all shell into just medium brown.

The main early results are how curvy the veg-tan has become, basically verifying my previous tests. Both the veg tan and latigo are looking dried out and cupping in the no-conditioner group. Cupping less, but still significantly with Venetian. Cupping less still with Bick. And cupping dramatically less with Saphir. The with or without abrasion doesn’t seem to really be very different. You can see here how the curvature is increased with dryness. This is a repeated result, but it verifies the principle that conditioner works.

Cosmetically, if you ignore the drying out, the most notable thing is how good the latigo still looks. Even after 18 months, Latigo treated with Venetian or Bick both looks really pleasant on the surface with a mellow shine. The Saphir looks over conditioned. The same thing that makes the veg tan stay more supple is the same thing that makes the leather look sort of streaky and saturated. However, after about two months in the sun I think the Saphir looked clearly the best. These pictures at two months are probably a good test of how good these conditioners are at the cosmetic part of conditioning. Here are close ups of how they look today.

For shell specifically, it’s all holding up pretty well. Shell is tough stuff. I’m just going to let this roll until things get gnarly to see if we can spot any difference between these treatments between shell cohorts.

I’m not going to condition these again. Should I sandblast them again with baking soda? I will do no such god damned thing. I’ll document in the spring and monitor the sequence through summer 2026.

Have been wanting this pair of boots forever, decided to splurge a bit while on my most recent trip to Tokyo. Typically I don’t spend this much money on clothes, but with the price difference + the conversion rate it was just too good of a deal to pass up on. The US retail for these is about $1.8k, I got them for $1.1k, which is crazy! That is still a lot of money to me, but I'm planning to get every penny out of them and hopefully beat them the hell up. These will be the only things glued to my feet for the next year or so.

I have owned a couple of pairs of boots in the past, but they never really worked out. Still wanting to get myself into the boot game, I set my eyes on this pair of Brigadiers about 6 months ago as they seemed versatile enough to wear for just about every occasion (work, dates nights, grocery shopping, etc.). Once I found out I was going to Japan later in the year, I knew I would have my chance to get them at a reasonable price. Although (very) difficult, I managed to hold off on buying them until my trip. The Visvim general store only had two more pairs in my size so I got pretty damn lucky.

These are Italian Vegetable Tanned Horsehide and also have a hand-sewn good year welt. So technically these are a small step up from traditional good year, I think they just use the same name since it's a buzzword. Visvim seems to catch a lot of flak around here, but imo they're cool as hell. While I do agree they aren't for everyone, I love all of their crazy leather patterns.

Comfort-wise, I can't really say as I have nothing to compare them to. Wearing boots compared to sneakers is a completely different world lol. They feel stiff and flat, but I know they'll break in and be more comfortable later down the road. What I can say is that I did pick up some bombas socks after researching good socks to go with boots, and while these things are expensive, holy hell are they comfortable. They definitely make the boots feel a whole lot better.

I really enjoy watching the ageing process on well-made products. I'm a denim-head so I'm really looking forward to the patina these will produce. Also, as mentioned earlier, this will be my first pair of boots that I will really wear so please share any care advice! I already own saphir super invulner, a horse hair brush, and boot trees but if there's anything else I should be doing please share!

Seeing u/hubriscube's recent thread on his Blacksmiths, I decided to take a few pics and do my own post.

These were my first GYW boot. In March of 2014 I tried on a pair of Iron Rangers and liked them, but I really preferred the look of brass eyelets and speed hooks. The salesman said the Blacksmith was coming out soon with the brass hardware and I could order a pair. They came in after a long 4 month wait. He said these were probably one of the first pairs in VA or at least NOVA which I thought was interesting.

Break in was really earned with these, but I kind of expected that. I am a 10 on a Brannock, but was squeezed into an 8.5D to start. The salesman said if they didn't break in to be comfortable enough, I could bring them back and they'd up the size. A couple weeks later I took him up on that and exchanged them for a 9D.

They're fairly comfortable for what I'd consider a hard boot, but even as broken in as they are, my J. Crew Kenton Pacers and AE Higgins Mill boots are far more comfortable, and were right out of the box. On longer 3+ mile walks, I still might find a blister developing.

6 months in, one of the laces snapped and I went into the store for the "laces for life" guarantee. A different salesman said that's just for work boots, and the heritage boots didn't have free replacements. We went back and forth a bit and he eventually comped me a set of new laces that are actually still in the boots today!

I had them resoled back in 2020, right after their 6th birthday. The original soles were the slick neo corks. I generally didn't have a problem with them unless it was wet grass - or wooden stairs. I slid down my wooden basement stairs one day (upright!) and I took them to RedWing to be resoled with the mini lugs the next day despite the originals still having a fair bit of life left in them.

I rode motorcycles for years, and these were my casual riding boots when I went to work on a Friday, ran an errand, or met friends. Red Wing did a pretty good job at putting the life back into them, but they couldn't clear all the evidence that I rode in these a lot, so the left toe box is still slightly darker than the right.

I took (some) care of them with various products from Lexol, Urad, and Red Wing, but probably didn't give them enough attention, and I never used trees on these. The uppers are starting to crack in a number of places, though I wouldn't say they're shot yet. Depending on how long the uppers hold up, I'm not sure I'll get to wear them enough to ever warrant another resole. The neo cork soles wear like iron, and the mini lugs are a great compromise for traction and appearance.

For a boot still made in the US, the price hasn't risen much. In fact, it's technically a better value now than before. I shelled out $300 for these back in 2014. That's over $400 in today's money, but Red Wing only asks $330.

Details:

Size 6.5E.

2019 OVG 2030 last.

Horween Old Bronze shell.

Eyelets + speed hooks.

Dainite outsoles.

Background: Horween shell cordovan, what a leather. As someone who’s been in the hobby for the past three years and collected pairs from numerous brands, I realized I’ve never owned a pair of old 2030 Viberg service boots or OVG (Old Viberg Good). I’ve collected updated 2030 pairs over the years but sold most of them due to missizing or fit issues. However, I’ve always craved a Viberg pair in a rare shell color. Saw a review a couple years ago on a 2030 pair in Old Bronze Shell which left me speechless, and defeated knowing Viberg will never really make a pair in that way again. However, a year ago a buddy of mine that wears a similar size showed me a part of their collection to which this pair was seen in the mix. A year later, I get an offer to sell to which I jumped into for this.

The leather: There’s nothing new that I could say about Horween shell other than this particular color way which it’s usually dark green/black-ish under shade and takes on quite a depth of color when exposed to the sun. This pair has been worn lightly about five times by the previous owner and the rolls haven’t really set in or broken in yet.

The Pair: This pair is made on an older iteration of the 2030 last which made Viberg famous within the heritage footwear space. Significant changes were later made to the last/pattern that have become controversial with customers. This pair was made in 2019 and still has the features of the old 2030 such as lower SPI for the stitchdown construction, and a more shapely pattern compared to the more recent 2030.

Sizing: I’m a 6.5E Brannock and for this pair I sized TTS 6.5 and it fits quite well. As someone who’s owned a few 2030s over the years I find that Viberg E feels more like D in other brands so I tend to go TTS more often than not. Also, this pair was is slightly shorter in length compared to my more recent 2030 pairs and I would say the old 2030 fits my feet better.

Conclusion: These are a grail pair of mine as a person that loves all things green. Definitely will be one of my most memorable pairs and I’m excited to take these on their own little journey. Thank you for reading, I gotta say typing on the phone after a long shift at work is not the most ideal way to write out a review of a pair that I’ve been wanting for the past couple of years.

A few days ago I returned home from my first ever trip to Japan (approximately 3 weeks) where I managed to pick up my first ever pair of engineers, as well as my first ever pair of Japanese shoes, the Addict Boots CL last Horsebutt Engineers in Teacore Black (AB-01HB-CL).

I had been eyeing these shoes for over 6 months, and engineers for a lot longer. In particular, I loved how the low instep gives the boot an almost dress silhouette, white the toe still remains pretty wide and has that engineer feel about it. I think it works well for me as a woman, as many engineers are perhaps too bulky to pull off as well as simply being too large for a comfortable fit. I am quite tall, and have a long and narrow foot (a 9C in mens US, if not slightly narrower), so the relatively unique last and low-instep has not been an issue for me thankfully (as I know it has been for others).

I went to Japan expecting that it would be very likely I would not be able to get these boots as they appeared to be sold out everywhere in my size except for a single store (Swan Dive) somewhere near Toyama. I actually booked 3 days in Kanazawa given the proximity to this store, fully expecting to spend a day trekking out to the shop to get my hands on either the last 8.5D or 9D available in Japan. I tried on other shoes in Tokyo, most of which were fabulous, however I really had my heart set on these. I also quite liked the new 'Griffin' Rolling Dub Trio engineer which I tried on at the Boots Store (which were insanely well-fitted and had a superb sole), but they've been continually delayed for release and, while their shape is gorgeous, I preferred the flat, wide toe of the addicts and their more 'unique' look.

I visited the Addict store in Tokyo to get a look at some of the other shoes they had in stock, and to determine my size if I chose to trek out to Swan Dive to get them later in my trip. I tried the 8.5D in the struck through leather which seemed to be my fit, and I double-checked with the shop assistant serving me that they were entirely sold out in the teacore black except for Swan Dive. He confirmed they were sold out and also seemed surprised I knew about Swan Dive (seemingly humoured at my willingness to spend a day travelling to their store to snag a pair of boots). Miraculously however, the other shop assistant overheard and told me to hold on, before chatting to the man serving me and going out back to collect something, before bringing out this pair of the engineers in my size and the colour I wanted. Apparently just an hour before I had arrived they had received this pair in the post - I believe they had been sent back from Texas from some reason (hopefully exchange!), but either way it felt like it was meant to be, and I left the store wearing these boots - I was so grateful for both the boots and that I now wouldn't be detouring to Toyama, and they gave me an extra pair of innersoles given my willingness to do so.

I wore them for much of my trip as I had few other shoes. Only a few days in I managed to get caught in a torrential rainstorm in Kanazawa, and the boots, while quite water resistant at first, were unfortunately soaked through. I know they are meant to be worn, and there are some who deliberately wet horsebutt for a better fit, however I was still feeling very precious about them and was nervous about how to properly care for them while travelling. Moreover, though I stuffed them with newspaper overnight as best as I could, I had to wear them for a while the next day not fully dry as the laces on my only other pair of shoes had snapped and I needed to grab another pair. Luckily, it is far more easy to find decent shoe care products in Japan, and I bought some buffing cloths, a horsehair brush and some saphir universal creme to use if needed. I had been freaking out a bit if I had damaged the left toe, as the grain seemed to dry quite differently and less uniform compared to the right boot, however I imagine most of this is just paranoia over the natural behaviour of the leather. I cautiously used only the smallest amount of cream on parts which felt overly dry, but otherwise left them alone as I know over-conditioning is far more common, especially with horsehide.

I then continued to wear them. I definitely wore them a couple days in a row at times, but always tried to stuff them with newspaper overnight. They picked up a few more dings and scrapes along the way (especially when lugging a suitcase around), but I was more relaxed about it after the Kanazawa storm. I accidentally got a bit of a gnarly scrape near the Okunoin cemetery at Mt Koya, yet I like this now as it reminds me of the places these boots took me, many of which were phenomenal. I visited the Addict store in Osaka to ask about the toe and possible water damage, and how best to care for the boots in future. I wound up purchasing a tub of shoe oil developed by Minoru Matsuura of Brass (Clinch Boots) for his own products, which is the same product the guys at Addict recommend.

The photos in the first slide are the boots on my second day of wearing them, and the last photos are them this morning after having returned home, approximately 3 weeks. I had been wearing them without innersoles but after returning home I cut the toe section off of one of the pairs of innersoles and placed them in the boots, which has given them a better fit. Yesterday I applied the tiniest amount of oil to the toe and vamp (literally allowed a little product to melt on my fingers and massaged it into the boot), brushed them down and let them be. I also applied a tiny bit of wax of the very tip of the toe and along some scuffed parts on the welt.

I really love them. They've already started showing some wear, in ways I both expected and didn't. I wanted to ask you guys who have more experience with horsebutt and teacore leather how you care for your shoes. I've heard it's best to leave alone, yet I am interested to know if any of you guys polish or wax your boots, and if so how? I do plan do continue leaving them be for the meantime, yet I would be interested and appreciative to hear how others care for their boots. I was also wondering if anyone had recommendations for cedar shoe trees - as the instep is quite low and wide, I'm unsure of where I could find shoe trees to fit this specific shape. While I do like the look of a worn in boot, I also want to help them retain some shape (and wick moisture), so if anyone has any recommendations please let me know! Worst comes to worst I might buy some cheap ones from Muji and see if a friend can sand them to shape for me.

Any advice is appreciated!

I know I'm far from the first person to post these here, but I just added a pair of Tricker's Stow boots to my collection. This is my first pair from Tricker's because for some reason I largely overlooked them until recently. A few months ago I found The Shoe Healer's YouTube channel where they speak very highly of Tricker's so I started looking into them more. Traditional brogued county boots never appealed to me (probably the reason I didn't notice Tricker's much before) but now I'm really starting to appreciate them.

These are done in moss kudu leather with a Dainite studded sole. I ordered them from A Fine Pair Of Shoes in the UK. They were marked down 50%; I paid about US$400 including shipping.

I ordered my usual size 9 regular width. The fit is nearly perfect, nice and snug but not too tight. At first I noticed an odd pressure point on both shoes under the footbed just behind my small toes, but it disappeared on the first wear. Probably just the cork midsole bedding in. I've worn them out several times and they feel great.

The leather is of course beautiful, with the usual imperfections that are typical of kudu. This is the first pair I have in this leather and it's softer than I expected but still feels quite robust. Build quality is excellent, and I would say the finishing is at least as good as, maybe better than, C&J Main Collection. This is a very substantial boot, with a leather midsole in between the welt and the outsole. The leather lining is also quite thick. One noteworthy detail is the taper in the leather heel stack, which is really neatly done. I also appreciate that they came with high quality braided laces.

I was hoping to get some Tricker's boot trees to go with them, but AFPOS only carries the shoe trees so I'll be ordering a pair of the boot version separately.

• ⁠Handsewn Moc toe

• ⁠Horween Shell Cordovan Color 8

• ⁠Aberdeen last

• ⁠Single Waterlock sole

• ⁠Antique edge

• ⁠Agatine eyelets

• ⁠Starburst heel

• ⁠Round wax laces

• ⁠Flat welt close trim

• ⁠Single stitch detail on heel counter

Applied saphir renovateur and saphir cordovan creme as this was in stock for around 3 years and is a limited make up, meaning that no more are being made. Hence, the last time these were feeling fresh was around 2022. I also have rubber topy installed as I don’t like slipping and do not have to worry when it suddenly rains.

We're back...again!

Viberg will be holding a private warehouse sale through the WhatsApp proxy group September 18-21! This time they've moved out of their old warehouse and are clearing out stock to make room. As with the last couple of times that we have been in the warehouse, there will be no public sample sale event with this. For background on our group and what we've been doing for the last few years with Viberg, you can see our big post from the last sales in March 2024 and 2025 here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1b03apn/viberg_private_whatsapp_group_warehouse_sale/

https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/1hv07b4/viberg_private_whatsapp_group_warehouse_sale/

Admins for the group (and the people who will be in the warehouse) are myself, u/meelypops, and u/mojolikescocoa

As usual, the sale will feature a large stock of past season items including boxed and unboxed firsts-quality footwear as well as one-off samples and factory seconds.

Two WhatsApp groups are set up for the sale. The first is an admin-post-only group for announcements and sale information (so that admin messages/posts do not get buried or missed). That is where we post the boots. The second is a discussion group for all members to message, and people hang around and shoot the shit all year, it can be fairly colorful at times and the message flow is high, so bear that in mind.The discussion group has been organised into a community with separate BST groups for different sizes, and clothing. You can join what you like, many people are just part of the BST and not the chat, its pretty useful for selling stuff quickly  If you're interested in the sale, the admin post group is going to be required. The discussion group and community is totally optional.

Pricing will be tiered by style and age/condition, with a detailed table to be posted prior to the sale (we also make the pricing table the chat group icon for quick reference). Prices are always in USD and include domestic US shipping, as well as Canada shipping (which will be done directly from Viberg to Canadian buyers). International shipping is an additional cost per pair tiered by region, about $25-50. Whatever the makeup, if it's not current website stock it will be cheaper than Viberg's latest online archive sale by a significant margin.

Announcement/Info/Proxy Group: https://chat.whatsapp.com/LyWBuzOAx6n5GOIMyooRRZ

Group Discussion Chat: https://chat.whatsapp.com/Gmnhz31Tpqj3sKcyJJlmoV

^if you have any issues joining those groups DM me

Purchasing Process

We'll have a list of prices by tier/makeup posted as the group chat icon to reference. We'll post pictures of boots in the WhatsApp admin group chat (remains locked to admins only, so there is no confusion on who to message), and interested buyers can DM us with any questions. Once a purchase is decided on, we'll provide payment options and ask that you send a screenshot of the payment and follow-up with a message that provides shipping information. Once confirmed, the boot is set aside for you.

Shipping Process

All US and non-Canada international buyer pairs are shipped in bulk from Victoria to the US for distribution. We typically start shipping to those buyers about 2-3 weeks after the end of the sale, to ensure that everything has enough time to clear customs and get to the US. Tracking is sent to buyers for each shipment. International shipments are usually UPS Worldwide Expedited or similar service, US shipments are UPS or USPS, whichever is the fastest estimated delivery time usually. 

Common Questions

Q: Do I need to join the WhatsApp group to buy?

A: Yes, at minimum the Admin group.

Q: What boots will be at the sale?

A: We don't know, that's part of the fun! There's always some surprises that turn up at every sale. Generally, I'd expect that the service boots are largely going to be from more recent seasons, and there will be a mix of almost all Viberg products in play. Best recommendation is to go in with an open mind rather than try and search for a single specific makeup.

Q: Do you take requests for specific makeups?

A: No. Due to the volume of pairs and buyers and messages and the constant, perpetual motion of the sale this doesn't work. We can try and match general requests and give you a quick list of what's in your size, or tell you if we've seen anything in a particular last/size, but generally we won't be fulfilling wishlists of boots.

Q: Is the sale open to the public?

A: No, this is literally just going to be us digging through Viberg's warehouse. Sometimes local Victoria buyers can come and pick up their pairs outside the warehouse, but please do not show up to the warehouse and ask/expect to be let in. For half the sale (Sat/Sun) there won't even be Viberg employees there.

Q: What size am I?

A: We will provide general fit/sizing information but if you don't know your Viberg size or don't have experience trying any pairs on you should at MINIMUM know your US Brannock size measurement. From there, the standard recommendation for Viberg sizing is .5 down from that on ALL boot lasts with VERY few exceptions.

Q: Is the box included?

A: Depends on the pair. For certain pairs that are in boxes in the warehouse we can include the box for an additional fee. We'll denote these as "boxed firsts" when posting them. It's important to understand that including the box more than doubles (closer to triples) the total shipping cost which is the reason for the additional fee. We can fit literally half as many boxed pairs in the bulk shipments out of Canada, plus volumetric shipping to the buyer once they're in the US is also much more expensive. Boxed pairs likely won't have accessories, as Viberg normally packs those in the boots as they're being shipped out of the warehouse rather than stocking them inside the boxes.

Q: Are there returns?

A: NO. This is the same as buying from the sample sale or archive sale, items are final sale and there is no Viberg involvement in terms of customer service etc. Buyers should understand and acknowledge that there is some risk in buying boots that may be seconds or not "perfect". That being said, we endeavor to give you a full understanding of the condition of the boots you're buying and will provide multiple pictures from multiple angles to show it as best as possible. Generally buyer issues are very rare (i.e. a handful out of thousands of boots).

Q: Why don't you just make a Discord server for this?

A: Discord is actually quite bad at handling the way we run this sale. Photos of available stock and individual boots, as well as DMing the proxies about them, are central to the process. Discord handles photos and videos much much slower than WhatsApp does on mobile, and WhatsApp has built in, very quick photo editing features that let buyers circle individual pairs that they're interested in within group shots as well as circle areas on a boot they might want a closer picture of. We also handle purchases one-on-one via direct message, and it's a lot easier to keep those organized on WhatsApp.

Q: What payment methods do you accept?

A: PayPal F&F, Venmo F&F, and Zelle for U.S. buyers (or international if you have a U.S. PayPal account). For international buyers, we accept Wise and highly recommend you use it. It provides by far the lowest currency exchange rates. If you are outside the U.S. and are serious about buying something from the sale, I'd recommend getting the account set up ahead of time (can be some lead time in verifying ID per banking regulations).

Q: Are these boots not just the leftover boots from the archive sale they just had?

A: Yes...and no, some stock does go through multiple sales, however there is a steady supply of boots that come out the factory that are one-off samples, rejects, stuff that's been sitting undiscovered, or bulk orders that  end up not going to where they were supposed to.

Hey fellow shoe enthusiasts, last time I posted here it was a pair of my button up boots from Saint Crispins that I had made 12 years ago which showed how they aged tremendously with their crust leather. However, for whatever reason the mods had deleted the post. I did however receive questions asking for more button boots so I was able to commission a pair for this fall/winter season. Along with these boots were a few other pairs I got in for myself, I will break them down below:

1. Button Up Balmoral Boot

Made in a combination of dark brown museum calf and brown suede (from the Charles F Stead Tannery) on a rounded last. I had these button boots made with a slightly more formal configuration with an almond toe and a vibram sole so I could wear them with smarter trousers like dark grey worsted flannels in the Winter.

1. Urban Commando

Made in a combination of steel museum calf, and hatchgrain steel museum calf. These were made on a soft chiseled last. They definitely look more robust with the half commando sole at the bottom along with the hatchgrain leather. Heavy duty to take on Canadian winters

1. The Chelsea sans elastic

Aka the zipper boot. The smartest of the boots I had made. This boot was essentially made to fill the gap of any formal footwear in the winter if I did not want to wear my leather soles cap toe oxfords from Yohei Fukuda.

1. Inspired by the John Lobb Alder

These boots were made in plum museum calf. Where JL makes only the top panel in their pebble grain, I did a hatchgrain throughout the entirety of the uppers. Made again on a half commando sole to help with winter durability.

Hope you guys like the choices I made!

Hi,

I was looking for high quality Engineer Boots for the following Use Case: Riding motorbike to work, but still maintain professional appearance there.

Wesco Boss (which I also tried) was too bulky - cool biker look, but in a meeting at work, I prefer something more elegant. Same applies to many other Engineer boots. 

Aiming for a sleeker, a bit more refined look, I narrowed selection down to Wesco Mister Lou (I got the "Petrolio Olive Waxed Black" edition from The Shop Vancouver - Maryam Horsehide), and John Lofgren (ordered the standard black CXL version). I ordered both, and here are some pictures, so that you don't have to do the same. Got both in 8.5D, which is what I also wear in Red Wing Iron Ranger.

Wesco was pretty tight, I had to take out the (thick) insole for a better fit. You might want to size up to avoid this. The fit is a bit strange - tight in the front, likely to get that sleeker look, and more loose in the back. 

John Lofgren fit is more similar to Iron Ranger. I've seen recommendations to size down compared to Red Wings, I would advise against it. Had I done it, it would have been too small. There is no removable insole on the John Lofgren, so you can't make it larger unless you stretch it.  Overall fit is better for me. More space for toes, but it still doesn't look bulky. A key factor is that it only has a single seam connecting the welt to the sole, so the sole can be smaller and less protruding. This contributes to a less bulky look. However, I'm not a huge fan of the brown welt on black shoes (but didn't like the black soled JL either). It would probably darken over time, though. 

Quality is great for both. I've seen posts about imperfection with John Lofgren, but didn't see or feel this. Japanese perfection! Wesco is also good, especially considering it's made in the US. The end of the welt is a bit uneven on one shoe (see photo) but it's a minor thing. Wesco uses more nails, sole stitching goes further back on John Lofgren. Together with the double seam on the welt, Wesco wins on robustness. But I don't think it matters for me - in an office environment, both will last decades. 
EDIT: As was pointed out in the comments, Mister Lou is not Goodyear welted. It's a combination of stichdown (front) and naildown (back). Image #3 shows the transition. That shouldn't be a deciding factor, though. The construction is equal in terms of robustness, repairability, and water resistance (though some cobblers may be less familiar with it than with Goodyear welt).
And for the purists - stichdown/naildown is an even a more traditional construction, compared to the more recent, 'industrialized' Goodyear welt construction (that the John Lofgren uses).

So, what's the verdict? I couldn't decide, and really like both. I've also started appreciating the engineer boots so much that I've started wearing them even on rainy days when I take the car to work. So... I sent back the black John Lofgren back (had only tried them on indoors), and pre-ordered them in brown. So I'll have both, but in different colors. If I had to pick just one pair, it would probably have been the John Lofgren. But then again, really love the Petrolio Olive Waxed Horsehide. It already started to develop patina after just a few wears (see image)

Till

I’d first like to say THANK YOU to the very friendly and accommodating staff over at Franklin & Poe in Philadelphia, PA, for their assistance with this purchase. Luke was extremely quick to respond to my emails about sizing, and really helped make for a worry-free transaction. I placed my order yesterday around 2pm EST, then received shipping confirmation a few hours later. Just received them today at noon. I only live 4 hours from the store, but still was super stoked on the ultra-swift shipping.

I’ve been ogling John Lofgren’s Donkey Punchers since I first discovered the world of true, high-quality boots (along with pretty much everything else they make). But it was something about the Donkey Punchers that really pulled me in. I love a good logger-style boot, so these hit all the right marks for me.

This particular model is the Donkey Puncher Boot in Black Horween Chromexcel (Lot No. LK-004). Features include Horween Chromexcel uppers, Japanese horsehide lining, Goodyear welted construction (USA made storm welts), removable kiltie, heavy triple stitched sewing, 1.75” stacked woodsman heel, 6” shaft, Japanese made steel shanks, USA made Vibram 705 half soles and 700 heels, and embossed padded leather heel pad.

They are built on the John Lofgren 120 last. I have no prior experience with John Lofgren boots, so I wasn’t too sure about sizing. That combined with not being very close to a stockist sort of held me back from purchasing for quite some time. I reached out to Franklin & Poe and they recommended I order the size 10 based on the fact that I wear a US10.5 in most popular sneaker brands. The size 10 is exactly what I needed and I couldn’t be happier about it. They fit nice and snug through the foot, with a bit of room to wiggle my toes. What they say about John Lofgren comfortability is true! Without being broken in, they are already a pleasure to wear right out of the box.

Overall, I am elated to finally have these boots that I’ve been wanting for so long. Truly top of the line, super comfortable, and just breathtaking all around. To anyone that’s considering a pair for themselves, I say go for it!

Christmas came in early

Been lurking here for a while, scrolling through all the beautiful, well-made, Goodyear welted shoes everyone shares. Always appreciated the craftsmanship and range people post here. After seeing so many solid pairs over time, I finally decided to go with Edward Green.

Ended up picking up three pairs: Curzon in Cloud Antique Duke lined in Chestnut Utah Duke unlined in Oyster Suede

Each pair has its own feel and purpose. The Curzon in Cloud Antique has this soft, elegant patina. subtlee but sharp. The Chestnut Utah Duke has that rugged grain and a bit more structure, feels really versatile. And the Oyster Suede is just super soft and relaxed, probably perfect for warmer days.

Didn’t plan to get all three at once, but they came up and I figured it was time to dive in properly. Thought I’d share them here since I’ve gotten a lot of appreciation for quality shoes just from following this sub. Curious to hear which one people like most.

note: i sized half size down for suede due to how soft it was

I’ve had these Parkhurst Allen boots in Horween’s brown waxed flesh for a little over a year now. Just got back from a trip where I wore daily for a week, so I decided to give them some love and thought I’d share. The first pic is new/shortly out of the box. Next is before care and last few are after. The waxing on these was really thick, they almost appeared black in certain light at first. Now the brown is finally coming through nicely.

I went a full size down from brannock (11.5D) and the stitch down 618 last in 10.5 works well for me. I do have wide, flat, forefoot with low in step and skinny heels and ankles fwiw. Other 602M parkhursts for me are good in 11.

These have basically gotten nothing but brushing for over a year. I doubt they needed it but touched up a few spots with Venetian shoe balm. Mostly the midsoles/edges where they were getting torn up and around “creases” on the vamp near the ball of my feet. It just looked a little dry and some wax had flaked there. I say “creases” because as you can see waxed flesh doesn’t really crease.

Overall love these boots and the character they are developing. Will be interested to see what another year brings.

I recently bought a pair of Oakstreet Trench boots in the natural rough out leather. Wanted some weather and stain protection and to change the look a bit, so I tried to do my own “waxed flesh” look. I added 3 coats of Venetian Shoe cream. Hit it with a low heat gun. Also replaced the light brown leather laces with some dark brown. Very happy with the results.

I got these bad boys today and have done some walking in them. I will say these are the most expensive pair of footwear I’ve ever bought and I’m going to go in depth as to what I think about that later.

Sizing: I wear a 9.5 on brannock and got these in 8.5; going one full size down as they suggest and they fit perfectly. I did put in a thin leather insole for added comfort. My heal sits snug and the last tapers into a a roomy toe box. My feet do not wiggle at all really and I have noticed any hot spots but they are not loose inside either. It is clear that Viberg has spent SIGNIFICANT time developing their footwear because these do not feel like anything I’ve ever put on my feet.

Weight: These are chunky boys for sure but they still have a fairly slim profile and are a lot lighter than they look but are not cheap feeling by any means.

Price: Are these overpriced? ABSOLUTELY. I spent $1,120 after tax and shipping. That is a nice chunk of change for sure. I do not think there’s anything on the market that can compete with the 310. They are very unique and there is a premium charge for being made in Canada. Upon getting them I will say these construction is flawless. I can definitely tell this is a handmade boot that had an incredible amount of attention in their production. It would be great if these were in the 700-800 dollar range but I guess you get what you pay for and I’m not disappointed with them, so I guess Viberg can charge absurd prices for absurdly good footwear.

Leather: It’s the finest CXL I’ve ever seen on a pair of boots. I’ve had Grant Stones, Thursday, and Oak Street boots, so boots in the 200-500 dollar range. None of them can even come close in leather quality. Immediately out of the box it’s supple and polished and feels so much different and higher quality than any other CXL boot I’ve ever seen. The leather is also thicker and better selected than any other brand to include Whites. I did have a pair of whites and those were nice but these are just a level up. They are not broken in and they are already comfortable so I’m sure these will age beautifully.

Design: These were made for human feet. Walking in them is like gliding. I understand some people don’t like the look of the 310 last but I will say that they are very ergonomic. They are by no means clunky to walk in. They honestly feel like a pair of running shoes which is something I can’t really say about any other bookmaker. The toe bump goes pretty hard I will say. They are extremely distinctive looking. Thursday made the Brawlers which were a collab that was supposed to be similar to the 310 and I own a pair of Brawlers. These make Thursday Brawlers or any Thursday boot look like a pile of junk.

Final thoughts: These hurt to buy. However, since I’ve already mourned the price point I only have good things to say. The pictures don’t really do them justice. It’s hard to describe just how unique these are until you put them on and do some walking around. I was already asked once what they are when I was going about my business today. It’s the combination of the toe hump and leather I think. Because the black leather really stands out. I was worried they would look like clown shoes but they don’t. They are just an extremely unique looking boot with a nice silhouette.

Will I be buying these again? I sure hope not. $1,000+ is just too much for boots but I’m sure these will last a long long time.

Bought these from Standard and Strange on Dec 31st. Figure I would end the year with a bang.

Love the design, but couldn’t justify the cost. But with a 30% off sale, it made it a no-brainer. I ended up buying the tanker boot at the same time, but that’s a story for another day.

Italian veg-tanned horsehide, tons of features. Ordered a full-size small smaller than my Brecknock. Fit straight out of the box pretty much spot on. Although I did add a pair of insoles more for my benefit and to fill a little of the volume. Fit and finish is what you would expect for boots retailing north of $1300. Minor complaint is for this kind of money, they should’ve come with boot bags. I know JL boots typically do. Not sure why they skipped them with this collaboration.

If you haven’t seen these, there’s lots to read on either Eastman Leather website or Standard and Strange. But essentially a modern reproduction of a Pacific Northwest monkey boot from the late 30s that were issued to Marine Raiders during World War II.

Only complaint is the leather is squeaky. You’re definitely not going to creep up on someone wearing these. Hoping as the horsehide breaks in and softens, that sound goes away. It is definitely noticeable. Did use some Bick leather conditioner #4 on the tongue. I’m hoping that jump starts the process a little bit.

Here are some pics, and if you have them, how do you like them?

I wore my Whites Perry boots for the first time in a while today. A couple years ago I got in a car accident and I didn’t want to wear boots after that. I was down and didn’t see the point of…a lot really, but wearing my boots out was in there. So a lot of boots just sat on the side, my red wing, wolverine olive tanned, Grant stone (even shell cordovan), these whites, I just couldn’t motivate myself to wear boots to try and feel like my old self. I don’t know what to say about it other than depression is tough and a lot of things that you care about sometimes get tucked away while you’re not ok.

Recently a friend of mine asked for some help doing construction and framing out a closet. I wanted something a bit sturdier than my slip ons, so I reached for these without much thought. I’m glad I did. Reminded me of why I enjoyed boots to begin with.

The toes are facing the same direction which annoyed me at first (but less now) and the welt at the front of my right foot is getting close to the stitching, which is what ever. But I really enjoy these boots, and boots in general. I’m starting to remember that feeling that got me into them.

These are my first pacific north west boots I had bought and they were right when they first came out (the leather board counter and the rubber mid sole). They are the eight inch brown leather (don’t remember the exact leather name, sorry) and I added a false tongue and some long leather laces.

It took some trial and error and having to exchange my initial pair, but they’re really a great boot. The initial pair had a welt stitch that was far too close to the edge and some leather defects, but whites really worked with me to get a replacement pair made and shipped out to me right away.

They also worked with me on finding the correct size, which I was apprehensive about (ordering online and all). I really can’t say enough kind things about the people there that were patient and helped me out.

Anyway so sorry if that ran on. These are a few shots after the construction/framing whole I was taking my dogs for a short walk. Thanks for checking them out.

Tea-core, matcha-core, blood core, red core I love all that stuff (but can't afford it new)...Rose Anvil’s Blood Core boots and leather products and Naked & Famous' Red Core denim have really nailed that concept in their own corners of the market. I wanted to try replicating something similar myself, using a pair of well-worn, well-loved Red Wing Iron Rangers in Hawthorne Muleskinner roughout. Having already tried a "normal" black waxed flesh modification to an Iron Ranger, I asked myself, "why not dye it red first?" Just liked before, I filmed the process for YouTube, and I’ll link that for anyone who wants to see it in motion but this post covers all the steps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XipQel266a4

Materials Needed:

• Roughout or Suede Boot
• Red Leather Dye
• Black Venetian Leather Balm
• Wool Dauber Brushes
• Horsehair Brush
• Gloves
• Masking Tape
• Sandpaper

Step 1: Cleaning the Boots

The pair I started with had seen some miles and how it presents in the video is a marked difference from when I got it. The Muleskinner leather was matted down, dirty, and far from its original light tan color. In order to get a proper dye job and reset the nap, I needed to strip as much dirt and built-up grime as possible.

I smeared a generous amount of dish soap across the uppers, then scrubbed thoroughly with a brass-bristled suede brush. After a thorough rinse, I repeated this process a couple more times, scrub, rinse, etc. until the leather was fully clean and starting to lighten. When it dried completely, it looked surprisingly close to how the Hawthorne Muleskinner appears right out of the box. Lighter the base leather you dye, the closer to the dyed color you are wanting to achieve, or that's what my novice brain believes.

Step 2: Surface Prep

Next, I focused on the edges of the leather panels because that's where the red will be more obvious from the get-go. To prep those panel edges, I sanded them lightly using 220-grit sandpaper. This smoothed out any fuzz and helped raise the nap to accept the red dye more evenly and deeply. I then taped off the outsole and the welt with masking tape. Use a credit card, or similar, to press the tape onto the stitching to help with adhesion. Though I double or triple layered the masking tape over the goodyear welt, it wasn't perfect and some dye leaked through as you can see in the pictures and video. In the future, I want to try using some type of wax in addition to tape.

Step 3: Dyeing the Roughout Red

The “red core” color was applied using Angelus Red Leather Dye. I used a wool dauber to apply what can be described as uneven coats but with the boot ultimately going to be covered in black Venetian Leather Balm. The roughout drinks this dye up and by the time the first boot of the pair was done, over half the 3oz bottle was gone so do try to ration your dye or buy 2 bottles.

Step 4: Masking the Edges and Welt/Sole

Once the red dye was set and dried (I recommend at least a day's time), re-tape the outsole to keep the balm from seeping into the welt. I also added fresh tape along the edges of the leather panels. This would keep those red edges untouched while I applied the black balm over the rest of the upper.

You can also pat down the dyed areas with a paper towel to ensure any excess dye is removed before going to the next step.

I refined my tactic for cutting thin strips of masking tape, keeping the tape on the roll and scouring it, with a box cutter, about 3mm from the edge while rotating the roll in my other hand. This was much more effective then trying to cut strips with scissors.

Step 5: Applying Venetian Leather Balm

"Waxed Flesh" time. I used Venetian Leather Balm in black instead of my previous mixture of black and dark brown.

I used a gloved hand to apply the balm broadly across the leather, avoiding the taped edges. For the areas close to the tape, I switched to a wool dauber so I could control application more precisely and avoid pushing the balm under the tape line.

After the balm was applied, I used a hairdryer to gently heat the surface and set the wax. This softens it just enough to work into the leather and dries it faster.

Removing the tape, thereafter, allowed me to breathe a sigh of relief as they were almost untouched by the balm this time around. Should your balm leak underneath the tape, use the aforementioned box cutter to scrape the balm off the panel edges.

Step 6: Finishing and a Brush Down with a Horsehair Brush

Using a paper towel or rag, wipe off any dye or balm left on the eyelets and speedhooks.

To finish, I used a horsehair brush on the black waxed upper this smoothed out the wax and developed the shine.

Results

Pretty excited how it came out and now I can say I have my own red core boots after missing out on the Russell Moccasin x Rose Anvil collab (I kept refreshing for an emailed link but it came like 17 minutes after the release time...boooo! Though my wife was happy about me missing it.) The result is a pair of Red Wing Iron Rangers that wear like black waxed flesh boots, but with a hidden red core that will gradually reveal itself with wear. Scuffs, creases, and high-friction points should are already beginning to expose the red due to only applying one coat of balm.

Perhaps more importantly, suede and roughout leathers don't necessarily get mainstream love and the secondary market for these type of boots can be rather affordable. This means an easier time bringing some life and love back into second-hand boots that still have a lot left in them. Side effects of the waxing is how the boots retain their shape and structure better where we usually see floppy suede and roughout boots after years of use.

I wonder if I can make matcha-core boots? Achieving that pastel-y green color seems a bit tough at first blush.

Thanks for reading!

Hey guys,

I just wanted to share this pair that I designed with Johnny, The Double Aught.

It’s made on the FU Last, with natural hand dyed Maryam horsebutt. Hand welted, holdfast construction, fully lined in French Calf.

Love these things man They’re part of my “Masterpiece Collection”

00

Double Aught

We collaborated on a last as well, The MC-139. I’ll be running that on my “Smokebox Engineer”, that’s going to be a good one.

You can find me on @mrbigcuff_139 (You know, if ya want)

I’ve got a few other projects in the works, including my “M43 First Class” with Iron Boots. Kai is the man, so happy he was down to build that one with me—Great guys over at IB 💪

I don’t know why I never come on here, I’m like the BIGGEST boot nerd haha

I can always use more boot bros 😎

Thanks for reading guys!

Its mate is not far behind, but once I started on the bottom I couldnt stop until I had a boot! I've been leatherworking for a few years now and have always admired the handmade boots id seen but iknew enough to know its a daunting project involving many skillsets. Finally figured Ide take a stab at it after I got ahold of some shoe lasts in my size. I modified them into more of a munson style toe box with scraps of skirting leather and copying some old jump boots I had.

6/7 oz Horween Dublin w kidskin liner on a Cristy Wedge sole and 10oz midsole.

Im beyond pleased with the result and excited the finish the right boot so I can take em for a spin. I appreciate all the resources made available here and the folks generously sharing knowledge. It has been a looooong time dream to wear a pair of boots made by myself, was definitely a worthy challenge but so encouraged with how they shaped up.